Introduction
Fashion
is part of our life. Fashion is not complete without color. Color means the
use of chemicals for color. Do we know how many chemicals are used in textile
processing to ensure our fashion? Are all chemicals safe for human health and
the environment? What are the potential dangers of chemicals used in textile
processing industries? There are lots of questions in front of us. Modern
textile industries are typical chemical processing industries where 1,500 complex chemical formula is used. 9.3 million tons per year of chemicals are used
for global textile production. About 1/4 of the chemicals produced directly or
indirectly worldwide are used for textile production. We do not know the impact
on human health for 80% of these substances…...! There are > 800 substances
used today in textile products that are known to be harmful to human health or
the environment. More than 80% of the total export earnings of our economy come
from textiles. We can see our fast-growing development. At the same time, we
can see how we are suffering from rare diseases like cancer, birth defects, and
the inability to reproduce as well as how we are destroying our environments
like water pollution, air pollution, soil pollution, and life in water bodies.
Thus, it is very important to identify what chemicals are being used at
different stages of textile processing and what are the dangerous risks for it.
The research found that many chemicals used in textile processing are
carcinogenic, mutagenic, persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic to
reproduction.
Definition of Sustainable Chemistry
Sustainable
chemistry is a scientific concept that seeks to improve the efficiency of
natural resources used to meet human needs for chemical products and services.
Sustainable chemistry involves the design, manufacture, and use of efficient,
effective, safe, and more environmentally friendly chemical products and
processes.
Sustainable
chemistry is a process that stimulates innovation across all sectors to design
and discover new chemical, manufacturing processes, and product stewardship
practices that will provide enhanced performance and enhanced quality in order
to protect and enhance human health and the environment.
Sustainable chemistry for Textile
Sustainable
chemistry in textile processing must have an assurance of safe human health and
the environment with the reduction of water consumption, chemical consumption, energy
consumption, and air/water/soil pollution.
Chemical
group
|
Major
area of use
|
Purpose
of use
|
Harmful
effect
|
AP/APEOs
|
Pretreatment process, washing, and finishing the process.
|
For wetting, detergency,
emulsification
|
Endocrine disruptor,
aquatic toxicity
|
Chlorophenols
|
Finishing Process.
|
For preservatives and pesticides
|
Carcinogenic,
mutagenic, and toxic to reproduction.
|
Banned amines from azo
dyes
|
In the dyeing and printing process.
|
For dispersing, direct,
acid, basic, and reactive dyes.
|
Bladder cancer
|
Dyes carcinogenic
|
Dyeing and printing
|
Direct, basic,
disperse dyes
|
Cancer
|
Disperse dyes
-sensitizing
|
Dyeing and printing
|
Disperse dyes
|
Skin sensitization/
allergy
|
Heavy metals
|
Plastic processing,
dyeing, and printing/ coating
|
Dyes and pigments,
caustic
|
Toxic to the reproduction,
carcinogenic
|
Organotins
|
In the finishing process.
|
PVC, PU coatings
|
Mutagenic
|
PAHs
|
Printing, heat
stabilizer, etc.
|
Pigment Black,
dispersing agents
|
CMR
|
PFCs
|
Finishing
|
Anti-dart, oil and
water repellants
|
vPvB, thyroid,
|
Phthalates
|
Printing, soft plastic
processing.
|
Plasticizers, leveling
agents
|
CMR, endocrine
disruptors
|
Sustainable
chemistry can play an important role in sustainable development in textile
processing by avoiding hazardous chemicals. A good chemical management system
may ensure sustainable chemistry in the textile processing industries. So far,
the ZDHC Foundation (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) has a holistic
solution to promote the industry running with a safe chemical that can ensure
safe products as well as discharge zero hazardous chemicals to a safe
environment. The current modern ETP (effluent treatment plant) can also ensure
zero hazardous chemical discharge but it will be way more expensive than any
other alternative. Thus, the most effective way of sustainable chemistry in the
textile industry is to focus on input chemicals. If we can detect non-compliant
chemicals, we can easily replace them with a safer alternative if we do not use
the hazardous substance intentionally. Studies have shown that current safe
alternative chemicals require fewer amounts to meet the same purpose of textile
processing which will reduce the chemical burden on ETP. The low chemical load
on the ETP will be effective for running the ETP effectively which can help the
industry move towards ZLD (Zero Liquid Discharge). Now our main concern is
risky chemicals, but the lack of groundwater will soon be another major concern
in Bangladesh. We need chemicals with effectively high-performance ingredients
so that the rest of the chemicals are less to wash off. The first step is
producing a list of restricted substances or MRSL-safe chemicals. First, we
need to have a broad MRSL to select safe chemicals. MRSL-compliant chemicals do
not mean the intentional use of hazardous substances at the level of chemical
composition. Hazardous Chemicals MRSL compliance chemicals can be identified
through MSDS review, testing, and certification based on a chemical list of
various regulations such as RACH, POP, CPSIA, CA65, GB, etc. There are many
organizations that can provide an MRSL Compliance Certificate, but the ZDHC
Foundation has some qualified guidelines and approval processes in place to
become an organization for chemical testing and certification. The ZDHC
Foundation has designed a chemical gateway where the industry can find the
necessary MRSL-compliant chemicals. They can easily download authentic MRSL
compliance certificates with various grading of chemicals. A chemical management
system is a prerequisite for ensuring sustainable chemistry in the textile
industry. A good chemical management system must focus on three main areas input chemicals, processes, and outputs.
Chemical management
It
should not be the responsibility of one single person. There must be a team
with people from product quality, production, procurement, ETP, and EHS. EHS
will oversee the total performance of the chemical management team. The product
quality manager will select the required MRSL-compliant chemical, and the collection
team will confirm the purchase of the selected chemical with the relevant
consent certificate. The production manager will ensure the use of the right
chemicals for the selected product.
Internal purchasing system
There
must be a well-defined procurement policy for any organization with a qualified
purchasing team. The procurement policy should also include a declaration on
the purchase of safe chemicals that will not adversely affect human health and
the environment. The purchasing team will purchase MRSL-loyal chemicals that
are selected by the chemical management team. The purchasing team will ensure
the proper selection of chemical suppliers. They will ensure the MRSL
compliance certificate as well as a written agreement for chemical products as
well as any non-compliance activities after production.
Documentation permits and verification
There
are many licenses / legal documents in the country that need to ensure
environmental requirements for environmental management. So there should be a
responsible person/team to follow the various rules as well as legal documents
for running an industry. They will follow updates on legal requirements and
regulations. They will inform the team about the need to update the regulations
for necessary steps and ensure the implementation of the update requirements.
Material Safety Data Sheet
It
is a very important part of chemical management. It helps to know about
chemicals. Every chemical must have MSDS with 16 mandatory information like
chemical name, CAS number, hazardous information, PPE (personal protective
equipment), accidental information emergency contact, etc.
Inventory system
Chemical
inventory is the mirror of the total chemicals in the facilities/industry. It
can help to know the total list of chemicals with quantities, using department
and compliance level and expiry date, etc. The chemical inventory list can help
avoid counterfeit purchases of similar chemicals. It can also ensure the
traceability of chemicals for any root cause analysis of any noncompliance.
Separation and segregation of chemical
Chemical
separation and segregation are very important to avoid incidents through the chemical reaction between adjacent stored chemicals. Some chemicals may
accelerate flame or create an explosion if chemicals are not properly separated
or segregated.
Chemical Storage System
Chemical
storage must follow chemical separation and segregation according to the
chemical compatibility chart. The Chemical Compatibility Chart will provide a
guide on how to store chemicals with any type of chemical. MSDS must be
available to users of the chemical. In addition to the availability of MSDS, a
standard chemical store must have a fire extinguishing system, good
ventilation, constant temperature, and humidity monitoring, secondary
maintenance, emergency response, etc.
Chemical management training
Training
can ensure the technical know-how of chemicals. It is the most essential tool
to implement the chemical management system properly. There must be a defined
procedure to identify training needs, training calendars, and training records with the
evaluation system. Training must cover the hazardous effects of chemicals, MSDS,
safe handling, PPE, etc.
Selection of personal protective equipment
PPE
selection is another technical part of the safe handling of the chemical. PPE
can protect the user from hazards through chemical exposure. Different
chemicals require different types of PPE. So, PPE must be selected according
to the MSDS of specific chemicals.
Data analysis of the test report
Chemical
test reports related to the final product and wastewater give an overall
picture of the input chemicals. It helps to analyze the root cause for
corrective and preventive actions as non-compliance. Data Historical data
also provides information on a variety of environmental issues related to
product rejection/withdrawal from the market, local government law violations,
and chemical hazards. According to historical data, the cost of different
events can give information about the overall cost of using different
hazardous/inconsistent chemicals. The overall cost of product rejection, government
fines, and reputation loss can help secure the decision to purchase
safe/accessory chemicals.
Worldwide requirement
Nowadays
global requirements are also becoming more stringent to protect human health
and the environment, The textile industry cannot get any order soon without the
risk of hazardous chemicals or ZDHC. If we want to grow our textile industry
seamlessly with a safe environment for future generations, we have no
alternative to sustainable chemistry. Sustainable chemistry is the main
requirement in textile processing.
Sustainable chemical quality partner
Trusted
Quality Partnership (SGS) for any sustainable development around the world. Our
vision is ‘when you need to be sure’ and our goals and vision are building the
confidence of our clients. It has more than 9,000 employees, including
scientists, engineers, doctors, chemists, auditors, and laboratories in 2,600
offices around the world. From the geographical location of Bangladesh, SGS has
been supporting the testing, inspection, verification, and certification of
products to government and non-government organizations since 1950. SGS
Bangladesh Limited is also playing an important role in the application of
sustainable chemicals in the textile processing industry. They are taking
chemical management training for people in the industry with regulatory
requirements so that the industry can become technically well-informed about
hazardous chemicals as well as safe alternatives. SGS is helping the industry
to ensure the use of MRSL compliance for textile processing chemicals and raw
materials through testing and certification. SGS is assisting the industry to
ensure zero product compliance with hazardous chemicals as well as ensure
product compliance with various regulations through the final product and
discharge wastewater and sludge testing. SGS conducts chemical management
audits and helps the industry analyze the root causes of any compaction. SGS
can help the industry to implement the best practices of chemical management in
their facilities. SGS Bangladesh has always stood by the industry to ensure the
sustainable application of chemicals in the textile processing industry.
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