Introduction
Fashion
is a part of our lives. Fashion is not complete without color. Color means the
use of chemicals for color. Do we know how many chemicals are used in textile
processing to ensure our fashion? Are all chemicals safe for human health and
the environment? What are the potential dangers of chemicals used in the
textile processing industry? We have a lot of questions ahead of us. Modern
textile industries are general chemical processing industries where 1500
complex chemical formulas are used. 9.3 million tons of chemicals are used
every year for the production of textiles worldwide. About 1/4 of the chemicals
produced directly or indirectly worldwide are used for textile production. We
don't know what effect this 80% substance has on human health...! Textile
products today use> 800 substances that are known to be harmful to human
health or the environment. More than 60% of the total export earnings of our
economy come from textiles. We are seeing our fast-growing development. At the
same time, we are seeing how we are suffering from rare diseases like cancer,
birth defects, and infertility as well as how we are destroying our
environments such as our climate, air pollution, soil pollution and life in
water bodies. We are using different chemicals in almost every step of textile
processing. Therefore, it is very important to identify what chemicals are
being used at different stages of textile processing and what are the dangerous
risks for it. Studies have shown that many of the chemicals used in textile processing
are carcinogenic, mutagenic, constant, biological, and toxic to reproduction.
Definition of Sustainable Chemistry
Sustainable
chemistry is a scientific concept that seeks to improve the efficiency of
natural resources used to meet human needs for chemical products and services.
Sustainable chemistry involves the design, manufacture, and use of efficient,
effective, safe, and more environmentally friendly chemical products and
processes.
Sustainable
chemistry is a process that stimulates innovation across all sectors to design
and discover new chemical, manufacturing processes, and product stewardship
practices that will provide enhanced performance and enhanced quality in order
to protect and enhance human health and the environment.
Sustainable chemistry in the textile
processing
Sustainable
chemistry in textile processing must have an assurance of safe human health and
the environment with the reduction of water consumption, chemical consumption,
energy consumption, and air/water/soil pollution.
Chemical
group
|
Major
area of use
|
Purpose
of use/ application
|
Harmful
effect
|
AP/APEOs
|
Pretreatment,
washing, and finishing.
|
Wetting,
detergency, emulsification
|
Endocrine
disruptor, aquatic toxicity
|
Chlorophenols
|
Finishing
|
Preservatives,
pesticides
|
CMR
(Carcinogenic, mutagenic, and toxic to reproduction)
|
Banned
amines from azo dyes
|
Dyeing
and printing
|
Disperse,
direct, acid, basic, and reactive dyes
|
Bladder
cancer
|
Dyes
carcinogenic
|
Dyeing
and printing
|
Direct,
basic, disperse dyes
|
Cancer
|
Disperse
dyes -sensitizing
|
Dyeing
and printing
|
Disperse
dyes
|
Skin
sensitization/ allergy
|
Heavy
metals
|
Plastic
processing, dyeing, and printing/ coating
|
Dyes
and pigments, caustic
|
Toxic
to reproduction, carcinogenic
|
Organotins
|
Finishing
|
PVC,
PU coatings
|
Mutagenic
|
PAHs
|
Printing,
heat stabilizer, etc.
|
Pigment
black, dispersing agents
|
CMR
|
PFCs
|
Finishing
|
Anti-dart,
oil, and water repellants
|
vPvB,
thyroid,
|
Phthalates
|
Printing,
soft plastic processing.
|
Plasticizers,
leveling agents
|
CMR,
endocrine disruptors
|
Sustainable
chemistry can play an important role in sustainable development in textile
processing by avoiding hazardous chemicals. A good chemical management system
can ensure sustainable chemistry in the textile processing industries. So far,
the ZDHC Foundation (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) has a holistic solution
to promote the industry running with a safe chemical that can ensure safe
products as well as a safe environment for zero hazardous chemicals discharge.
The current modern ETP (effluent treatment plant) can also ensure zero
hazardous chemical discharge but it will be way more expensive than any other
alternative. Thus, the most effective way of sustainable chemistry in the
textile industry is to focus on input chemicals. If we can detect non-compliant
chemicals, we can easily replace it with a safer alternative if we do not use
the hazardous substance intentionally. Studies have shown that current safe
alternative chemicals require fewer amounts to meet the same purpose of textile
processing which will reduce the chemical burden on ETP. The low chemical load
on the ETP will be effective for running the ETP effectively which can help the
industry move towards ZLD (Zero Liquid Discharge). Now our main concern is
risky chemicals, but the lack of groundwater will be another major concern in
Bangladesh in the very near future. We need chemicals with effectively
high-performance ingredients so that the rest of the chemicals are less to wash
off. The first step is producing a list of restricted substances or MRSL-safe
chemicals. First, we need to have a broad MRSL to select safe chemicals. MRSL-compliant chemicals do not mean the intentional use of hazardous substances at
the level of chemical composition. Hazardous chemicals MRSL compliance
chemicals can be identified through MSDS review, testing, and chemical
certification based on the chemical list of various disciplines such as KREC,
POP, CPSIA, CA65, GB, etc. There are many organizations that can provide an
MRSL Compliance Certificate, but the ZDHC Foundation has some qualified
guidelines and approval processes in place to become an organization for
chemical testing and certification. The ZDHC Foundation has designed a chemical
gateway where the industry can find the necessary MRSL-compliant chemicals.
They can easily download authentic MRSL compliance certificates with various
grading of chemicals. A chemical management system is a prerequisite for
ensuring sustainable chemistry in the textile industry. A good chemical
management system must focus on the three main areas of input chemicals,
processes, and outputs.
Chemical management
team
Chemical
management should not be the responsibility of a single person. There must be a
team with people from product quality, production, collection, ETP, and EHS.
EHS will oversee the total performance of the chemical management team. The product
quality manager will select the required MRSL-compliant chemical, and the
collection team will confirm the purchase of the selected chemical with the
relevant consent certificate. The production manager will ensure the use of the
right chemicals for the selected product.
Internal purchasing
policy
There
must be a well-defined procurement policy for any organization with a qualified
purchasing team. The procurement policy should also include a declaration on
the purchase of safe chemicals that will not adversely affect human health and
the environment. The purchasing team will purchase MRSL-loyal chemicals that
are selected by the chemical management team. The purchasing team will ensure
the proper selection of chemical suppliers. They will ensure the MRSL
compliance certificate as well as a written agreement for chemical products as
well as any non-compliance activities after production.
Documentation permits
and verification
The country has many licenses / legal documents required to ensure environmental
requirements for the management of the industry. So there should be a
responsible person/team to follow the various rules as well as legal documents
for running an industry. They will follow updates on legal requirements and
regulations. They will inform the team about the need to update the regulations
for necessary steps and ensure the implementation of the update requirements.
MSDS (Material Safety
Data Sheet)
MSDS/SDS is a very important part of chemical management. It helps to know about
chemicals. Each chemical must have 1 name mandatory information such as
chemical name, CAS number, hazardous information, PPE (personal safety
equipment), accidental information, and MSDS along with emergency communication.
Chemical inventory
A chemical inventory facility/mirror of the overall chemical of the industry can help to
know the total list of chemicals including chemical quantity, category and
compliance level, expiration date, etc. The chemical inventory list can
help to avoid counterfeit purchases of similar chemicals. It can also
confirm the search for chemicals to analyze the root cause of any unresolved
issues.
Chemical separation
and segregation
Chemical
separation and segregation are very important to avoid incidents through a chemical reaction between adjacent stored chemicals. Some chemicals can
accelerate flames or create explosions if the chemicals are not properly
separated or segregated.
Chemical storage and
onsite management
Chemical
storage must follow chemical separation and segregation according to the
chemical compatibility chart. The Chemical Compatibility Chart will provide a
guide on how to store chemicals with any type of chemical. MSDS must be
available to users of the chemical. In addition to the availability of MSDS,
the store must have standard firefighting, good ventilation, uninterrupted
temperature, and humidity monitoring system, use of secondary condensate,
emergency response system, etc.
Chemical management
training
Training
can ensure technical knowledge of chemistry. Training is the most essential
tool for the proper application of chemical management systems. There should be
a defined procedure for identifying training records with training
requirements, training calendars, and assessment systems. Training must cover the
hazardous effects of chemicals, MSDS, safe handling, PPE, etc.
PPE (personal
protective equipment) selection
PPE
selection is another technical part of the safe handling of chemicals. PPE can
protect the user from danger through chemical exposure. Different types of PPE
are required for different chemicals. Thus, PPE has to be selected according to
the MSDS of the specific chemical.
Data analysis
Chemical
test reports related to the final product and wastewater give an overall
picture of the input chemicals. It helps to analyze the root cause for
corrective and preventive actions as non-compliance. Data Historical data
also provides information on a variety of environmental issues related to
product rejection/withdrawal from the market, local government law violations,
and chemical hazards. According to historical data, the cost of different
events can give information about the overall cost of using different
hazardous/inconsistent chemicals. The overall cost of product rejection,
government fines, and reputation loss can help secure the decision to purchase
safe/accessory chemicals.
Global requirement
Nowadays
global requirements are also becoming more stringent to protect human health
and the environment, the textile industry cannot get orders in the near future
zero without the consent of hazardous chemicals or ZDHC. If we want to grow our
textile industry seamlessly with a safe environment for our future generations,
we have no alternative to sustainable chemistry. Sustainable chemistry is the
main requirement in textile processing.
SGS, is a name for
sustainable chemical
SGS
is a trusted quality partner of any sustainable development around the world?
Our slogan is 'When you need to be sure' and our goals and vision are building
the confidence of our clients. It has more than 9,000 employees, including
scientists, engineers, doctors, chemists, auditors, and laboratories in 2,600
offices around the world. From the geographical location of Bangladesh, SGS has
been supporting the testing, inspection, verification, and certification of
products to government and non-government organizations since 1950. SGS
Bangladesh Limited is also playing an important role in the application of
sustainable chemicals in the textile processing industry. They are taking
chemical management training for people in the industry with regulatory
requirements so that the industry can become technically well-informed about
hazardous chemicals as well as safe alternatives. SGS is helping the industry
to ensure the use of MRSL compliance of textile processing chemicals and raw
materials through testing and certification. SGS is assisting the industry to
ensure zero product compliance with hazardous chemicals as well as ensure
product compliance with various regulations through the final product and
discharge wastewater and sludge testing. SGS conducts chemical management
audits and helps the industry to analyze the root causes of any compaction. SGS
can help the industry to implement the best practices of chemical management in
their facilities. SGS Bangladesh has always stood by the industry to ensure the
sustainable application of chemicals in the textile processing industry.
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