Cotton fabric manufacturing with the finishing process

Fabric Manufacturing

Fabric manufacturing is a major issue in the textile industry. It is the basis of the conversion of fiber into yarn and yarn into fabric. These are then dyed or printed, and fabricated into garments. Various kinds of fibers are used to make yarn. Cotton remains the most important natural fiber, so it is treated with depth. There are many variable processes that can be found in the cutting and fabric-forming stages with the complexity of the finishing and coloring processes of a wide range of products.

Fabric Manufacturing

Cotton processing

Cotton is a very essential natural fiber in the world. In 2007, there were 25 million tons in 35 million hectares of land cultivated in more than 50 countries around the world.

There are six steps-

A. Cultivation and collection

B. Preparatory process

Sea spinning

D. Knitting or knitting

E end

F. Marketing

Cotton cultivation and yield

Cotton grows anywhere with long, hot dry summers with plenty of sunshine and low humidity. Indian cotton, Gossypium arboreum is fine but mainly suitable for hand processing. American cotton produces the longest main product required for the production of Gossypium hirsutum machines. Planting takes place from September to mid-November and the crop is harvested between March and June. The cotton balls are harvested by the stripper crop and collected by the spindle picker which removes the whole ball from the plant. Cotton bowls are the seed pods of the cotton plant which are fibrous with a few thousand seeds about 2.5 and a half centimeters long.

Cotton

Ginning

Seed cotton goes to a cotton gin. The cotton gin separates the seeds and removes "debris" (dirt, stalks, and leaves) from the fibers. In the saw gene, the circular saws grab the fiber and pull it through a jolt that is too narrow for the seeds to pass through. A roller gin is long used with the main cotton. Here, a leather roller captures the cotton. A knife blade, set near the roller, drawing through the teeth in the seed circular saw and rotating brush that separates it from their cleaning. Ginned cotton fiber, known as lint, is then compressed to a length of about 1.5 m and weighs about 220 kg. Only 33% of the crop is usable lint. Commercial cotton is priced by quality, and it is mainly related to the main length and variety of trees. The longest main cotton (26 to 18 inches) is called Egyptian, the medium main (1¾ in ¾ in) is called American highland, and the shortest (less than ¾ in) is called Indian. Cottonseed is pressed in cooking oil. The husks and food are processed into animal feed and the stems have stalks.

Bale opening and cleaning

The cotton is driven into the mills in large 500-pound bells. When the cotton comes out of a mound, it is all packed together and still contains vegetable matter. The bell is opened using a machine with a large spike, called an opener. The cotton is sent through a picker or similar machine to pick up and remove the vegetable matter. In any picker, the cotton is beaten with a beater bar to loosen it. It is then fed through various rollers, which help to remove the vegetable matter. Cotton, with the help of fans, is then collected on a screen and fed through more rollers until it emerges as a constant soft defecation sheet, known as a lap.

Mixing and blending

In the spinning process, when different fibers of the same grade are put together, it is called blending. For example, yarn produced using 65% cotton yarn and 35% polyester yarn is then called blending. The mixture is based on the movement of important fiber properties such as length, fineness, strength, etc., and proportions and adjusts the properties under quantitatively controlled conditions. The blending process requires a certain proportion of fibers to blend with each other.

And different grades of the same fibers are put together to make yarn but this is called mixing. For example, yarn is produced using 40% Indian cotton and 60% Egyptian cotton but it is called mixing. There is no fixed ratio of fibers to merge with each other. Raw cotton is the main material that affects the quality of yarn. The main technical challenge of any textile process is to convert the high variability in the properties of the input fibers to uniform ends. This critical work is largely achieved in the mixing process. The mixing section of the spinning mill plays an important role in the formation of suitable blends of fibers.

The blend has a significant impact on end-product costs and quality. One mill can control the total cost of cotton by selecting the right quality cotton by purchasing at the most suitable time by determining the mixing efficiency for different parts of different yarns by fluctuating the cotton material at the appropriate time of the year.

Porcupine opener

The cotton fed by the previous opener is advanced with the help of feed lattice. The cotton sheet now moves between the paddle and the paddle roller. The weight of cotton fed per unit time is fixed by the speed of this paddle feed control. The cotton sheet of the pedal roller feeds into a pair of feed rollers that are heavy to give the required grip on the cotton. 16 round discs are mounted on the shaft of this opener. 14 to 18 striker blades are alternately riveted on each round disc. Each striker is bent at a slightly different angle. The narrow sheet of cotton delivered from the feed roller is severely beaten by a quick-rotating striker of porcupine beater against the grid bar. Due to this beating action, the thread is effectively opened and the lifted waste particles pass through the gaps in the grid bar. At the end of the grid bar, a stripping rail is provided, it is a metal bar that is set about 1/16 inch away from the end of the striker. This small clearance between the stripping rail and the striker prevents a bunch of cotton from being carried near the beater.

Step cleaner

In the condenser steps the cleaner is assigned to feed the cotton. The photo-cell layout in the reserve tower unit monitors the height of the reserve fiber and signals pauses or starts commands on the processing machine. Cotton is fed from the reserve tower with a pair of feed rollers. According to the height of the cotton level, the feed cell of the reserve tower of the next machine, sprinkle the feed non-stop by the motorized gear reduction unit. The grid bars combine effectively with the centrifugal force and the rapid revolution of beating the cotton striking cylinder (multiple beaches) and the spike on the cotton against gravity to open the cotton and remove the heavy impurities. From cotton heavy impurities, dust and dirt particles, short fibers, etc. pass through the bar interval and are collected outside the grid bar.

Scotching process

Scotching refers to the process of cleaning cotton from seeds and other impurities. The first scotching machine was invented in 1797 but did not become mainstream until 1808 or 1809 when it was introduced and used in Manchester, England. By 1816, it was generally accepted. The scorching machine worked by twisting the cotton through a pair of rollers and then hitting the iron or steel bars known as bitters or bitters. The beetles, which turn very quickly, hit the cotton hard, and scatter the seeds. This process is done by holding a series of parallel bars so that the seeds do not fall off. At the same time, the air is blown across the bars, which takes the cotton to a cotton chamber.

Carding process

In the carding process, the fibers are separated and then gathered into a loose strand (sliver or towel). The cotton comes out of the picking machine in the lap and is then taken to the carding machine. The fibers are neatly arranged to make the carders easier to spy. The carding machine basically carries a large roller with smaller ones around it. All the rollers are in small teeth and the cotton in the teeth becomes finer (i.e. closer together) as it progresses further. The cotton leaves the carding machine in the form of a sliver: a large rope of fibers.

Carding in a broad sense can refer to these four processes-

Willowing - relaxation of fibers;

Lapping - removes dust to create a flat sheet or lap of cotton;

Carding - a sliver on a thick rope 1/2 inch in diameter with the shoulder in the litter lap; And

Drawing - where a drawing frame connects 4 slivers together, repeating for increased value.

Combing process

Combing is a method of preparing carded fibers for spinning. Combing is divided into linear and circular combing. The noble comb is an example of circular combing. Example of French comb linear glass. The combing process grills out the evening with the process of making the carded or scratched top suitable for spinning. The combing separates the short fibers by rewriting rows of rotating rings or steel pins. The fibers at the top of it are straightened and located parallel to each other. When wool is combed, the short fibers that are thrown away are called noil and turn into soil.

In general, there are two main systems for preparing fibers for yarn: the degraded system and the wool system. The degraded system is defined by the removal of short fibers by combing and top preparation by gilling. In wool systems, short fibers are retained and may or may not be associated with risk.

The circular combing and top comb insertion is repeated and the crested fibers - now called tufts - are overlapped. The overlapping creates some solidity so that the tuft is allowed to twist to create a curved sliver. This sliver is weak and unsuitable for spinning. Fiber end irregularities need to be identified for extra gilling to allow spinning.

Removing the short fibers attached to the fiber and arranging the flat in a flat bundle, all the fibers move in the same direction. This preparation is usually used to cut spoiled yarn. Wool yarns cannot be cut from fibers made with combs, instead, fiber cards should be made. When the cotton is combed it is used for quality fabric with a high thread count.

Draw frame

The production cost of the draw frame is less than 3% of the total yarn cost. However, it has a great effect on the quality of yarn, especially in the evening. The draw frame is a guaranteed compensation point for removing errors. High-performance drawing frames currently produce 400 kg of sliver per hour in each distribution. The main goal of the drawing frame is equalization. One of the main tasks of the draw frame is to increase parity in the short, medium and - especially - in the long run. In order to get the best value of strength in parallel yarn properties, the fibers must be arranged parallel to the fiber strand. Creating this parallel layout is basically the work of the draw frame. It accomplishes this task through the draft as each draft step leads to straightening the fibers. In addition to the equivalent effect of the mixture, doubling provides one degree of compensation for the change of raw material by the mixture, which occurs simultaneously. Dust removal is slowly becoming a major problem for both the processing and the staff involved. It is important to remove dust at the most practical stage at each possible point in the overall process.

Ring frame

The ring frame was submitted to John Thorp of Rhode Island in 1828/9 and was developed by Mr. Jencks of Pawtucket, Rhode Island, who was named as the inventor of Richard Marsden. The cost per spindle for ring spinning is higher. In states where cotton was the main price, the extra labor cost of driving mules could be exploited, but Lancashire had to bear the cost of shipping. The critical reason was the easy availability of labor, the ring became convenient when there was a lack of skilled labor. It has always been in New England and when it turned out in Lancashire the ring frames began to be adopted. A ring frame was made by pressing cast iron and later steel. There are spindles on each side of the frame, on top of which there is a krill loading the rollers (draft) and at the top, there are loads of roving bobbins. Rowing (unspun thread) goes down from the bobbins to the drawing rollers. Here the rear roller fixed the incoming thread, while the front rollers rotated faster, pulling the rowing and making the fibers more parallel. The rollers are individually adjustable, mainly by lever and weight. Short rowing now goes through a thread guide that is adjusted to the center above the spindle. The thread guides are on a thread rail that allows their broken threads to be hinged out of the way for duffing or piking. The low rowing spindle moves to the assembly, where it is threaded through a small D-ring known as the Traveler. Move along the traveling ring. This is the name given to the ring frame. From here the thread is connected to the existing thread in the spindle.

Doffing

Doffing is a separate process. An attendant is descending the rails of the ring below. The instrument goes off. Thread guides are hinged-up. Complete bobbin coils are removed from the spindles. The new bobbin tube holds the thread over the spindle and holds the cup to the neck of the spindle, lowering the thread guides and restarting the machine. Now all the process is done automatically. The yarn is taken in a cone winder. The machines are currently manufactured by Reiter (Switzerland), Toyota (Japan), Zinser, Suessen, (Germany) and Marzoli (Italy). Rieter's Compact K45 system has 1632 spindles, while Toyota has a machine with 1824 spindles. All controlled atmospheric conditions are required.

Yarn measuring system

A. Cotton count: refers to the thickness of the cotton yarn where 840 yards of yarn weighs 1 pound (0.45 kg). 10 Count Cotton means 8,400 yards (7,700 m) of yarn weighing 1 pound (0.45 kg). It is thicker than 40 count cotton where 40x840 yards is required. In the UK, counts of 40 are thick (Oldham counts), medium counts of 40 to 80 and fines counts above 80. In the United States, the average count is 20 years old.

B. Hank: 7 leas or 840 yards in length (lowered hank is only 560 yds)

C. Thread: Length of 54 (circumference of a warp beam)

D. Bundle: Usually 10 pounds

E. Leaves: 80 threads or 120 yards length

F. Denier: This is an alternative method. It is defined as a number equal to the weight of a single thread of 9000 m grams. 15 deniers are fined more than 30 frauds.

G Tex: Weight in gram 1Km yarn is called Tex

Woven-fabric manufacturing

The weaving process requires a loom. Longitudinal threads are known as warp and crossway threads are known as weft. The warp that needs to be strong should be presented to weave on a warp beam. The loom passes the loom in a shuttle that carries the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are changed automatically by the loom. Thus the yarn needs to be wrapped with a beam and in the pirn before weaving begins.

Winding process

The composition of large yarn packages that can be unwinded with ease during the next process. Winding is the most necessary process in both yarn production and fabric production. The main purpose of the winding is to create suitable packages for both woven and knitted fabric production. Such as-

A. To transfer yarn from one package to another suitable package, it can be conveniently used for the weaving process.

B. To remove a defect like yarn 'hairiness, naps, slabs, foreign things.

C. To clean the yarn

D. To increase the quality of yarn

E. Get a suitable package.

F.  To store the yarn.

Warping process

The warping process is intermediate between winding and sizing processes. This creates a warper beam that is joined together as a single loom beam in the next process of sizing. A warp beam can last about 500-1000 warps. Bobbin racks are set up to hold the thread while turning it over a weaver's warp bar. Since the thread is good, often three of them can be combined to get the desired thread count.

Warping machine

Sizing process

Sizing is the process of using an adhesive coating on the surface of the yarn. It is mainly applied to improve the weaving ability of yarn to resist the action of weaving i.e. absorption, abrasion, tension, and flexibility. It maintains good fabric quality by increasing hairiness, weakness, and yarn, reducing yarn absorption. Other features of sizing include changes in various physical features. It is applied to the fiber surface by different processes and different recipes as per requirements. Size elements- 1. Starch, 2. Binder, 3. Softener, 4. Anti-septic agent, 5. Anti-static agent.

Drawing-in process

The process of drawing each end of the warp separately through the dents and the eyes of the healds in the order indicated by the draft. The drawing-in process comes just after the weaving beam is ready. Weaving beams are obtained by departmental warping or sizing. The drawing-in process basically consists of two processes. The first procedure is called drafting and the second procedure is called denting. This is mostly done manually but in large-scale textile industries, automatic drawing-machines are used, where more productivity is required. If drop cables with closed D are used, the ends are drawn through the drop wire D before healing the eyes. The drawing process is used to apply new fabric designs to the loom. When the fabric design is regularly repeated, a warp tying (knitting) process is applied to change a loom beam. The binding process is done manually or with the help of a knitting machine.

A. Draft: According to the draft (sequence of the ends) the processing of the ends through the eye of the held wire or the corner of the eye is called a draft. This work is done by two people when the draft is executed manually. The person who selects the ends and presents them for drawing is called a reacher. The person who draws the ends through the eyes of the healing wire with the help of a drawing hook is called a drawer.

B. Denting: When the ends draft is finished, these ends go through the hole in the reed. We can say that "according to the denting order of the woven fabric, denting is the processing of the ends through the holes in the reed". It can be performed by a single person or bi-person. In the case of two persons, one person selects the ends and presents them to the other person who passes these ends through the groove of the tube.

Pirning

The pirn winding frame was used to transfer the left foot from the yarn cheese to the pirns that fit the shuttle.

Weaving process

Weaving is a process of textile production in which two sets of two yarns or threads are set. Other methods interlaced at right angles to make a fabric or cloth are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. Longitudinal threads are called the warp and lateral threads are the weft or filling. These threads affect the properties of the fabric in the inter-woven method. The fabric is usually woven into a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling the threads. A fabric band that meets this definition of fabric can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, backstrap weaving, or other techniques without weaving. The way the warp and the filling thread come together is called weaving. Most of the woven products are made in one of three basic looms: plain wave, satin weave, or towel. The knitted fabric can be simple (in one color or in a simple pattern) or can be woven into a decorative or artistic design. The initial movement of the loom is also said to weave as a repetition of these three actions.

Weaving

A. Shading: where warp threads (ends) are separated by raising or lowering the held frames (headles) to create a clean place where the pick can go.

B. Picking: Where the loom or pick is driven by hand across the loom, driven by an air jet, a rapper, or a shuttle.

C. Beat-up or beating: where the groove pushes the weft against the fall of the cloth.

The Lancashire loom was the first semi-automatic loom. Jacquard looms and dobby looms have sophisticated fountain systems. These can be individual looms or plain looms. A Northrop loom was fully automated and was mass-produced in the mid-1909s and 1900s. Modern looms run fast and do not use any shuttles: there are air-jet looms, water-jet looms and rapier looms.

The woven fabric finishing process

In its loom-state woven cotton fabrics not only contain impurities with warp size but also require further treatment to develop their full textile potential. Furthermore, it can get substantial additional value by applying one or more finishing processes.

Desizing process

The process of removing sized elements from warp yarn after the textile fabric is woven is called desizing. Considering whether the desizing agent is involved in fabrication with the desizing agent to reduce or dissolve the fitting material and ultimately allow the degreasing products to be washed off.

The major desizing processes are:

A. Enzymatic desizing of starch of cotton cloth

B. Oxidative desizing

C. Acid desizing

d. Remove water-soluble sizes

e. Fermentative desizing

Scouring process

Scouring is the process of removing natural (oil, wax, fat, glue, etc.) as well as impurities (during fabrication) to produce hydrophilic and clean textile materials. This is a very important process of wet processing. In other words, scouring is a chemical washing process on a cotton cloth to remove natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. seed fragments) from the fiber and any added soil or dirt. Scouring is usually carried on iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids is called saponification. A kier is usually closed, so a solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure by excluding oxygen which reduces the cellulose of the fiber.

The purpose of scouring-

1. The main purpose of scouring is to remove impurities from the textile material.

2. To make the fabric highly hydrophilic.

3. To make textile materials in a highly absorbent state without significant chemical or physical damage.

4. Add alkali to produce clean material

5. Removal of non-cellulosic material in the case of cotton.

6. To make the textile material suitable for subsequent bleaching operations.

Bleaching process

Bleaching is a process in which the natural colors of textile fibers are removed in order to achieve a white color for the development of the actual color. It improves whiteness by removing natural color and remaining trace impurities from cotton; The degree of bleaching required is determined by the required whiteness and absorption.

Chemical bleaches are works in two ways:

A. An oxidizing bleach works by breaking the chemical bonds that make up the chromophore. It converts the molecule into a separate substance that either does not contain chromophores or contains chromophores that do not absorb visible light. It is a process of chlorine-based or oxygen-anion-based bleaches that reacts with the primary nucleophilic attack.

B. A reducing bleach works by converting the double bond into a single bond in the chromophore. This removes the ability of the chromophore to absorb visible light. It is a process of bleaching based on sulfur dioxide.

Sunlight acts as a bleach through a process directed towards the same processes: often high-energy photons of light in the violet or ultraviolet range can disrupt the bonds of the chromophore, making the colorless substance colorless. Extended exposure often leads to huge color discoloration usually reducing the colors to white and usually very faded blue.

Mercerizing process

Mercerization is the textile finishing treatment for cellulose fabric and yarn, mainly cotton and flax, which improves the absorption of dyes and tear strength, reduces fabric shrinkage, and provides a silky luster. The process was developed by John Mercer in 1844, applying a 55-65 ° twaddle scale (20-30%) sodium hydroxide solution with cotton. Cotton is treated with sodium hydroxide. Cellulose is converted to hydrate. A caustic soda concentration of 20-26% is used. Effective mercerization requires the use of wetting agents. Mercerized cotton enhanced luster due to the production of circular cotton fibers under almost sour. Another characteristic feature is the inconvenience (devolution) of cotton hair. In Dry Mercerization, the process is completed while the fabric dries on the stencil.

Singeing process

A singe is slightly scorching, burning, or flaming. This could be due to an accident, such as burning one's own hair while burning a gas fire, or an intentional method of treatment or removal of hair or other fibers. In the textile industry, loose fibers scattered on the surface of textile materials are equipped to remove them. When used to cotton fabrics, it results in reduced durability, better dyeing properties, improved reflection, no frosty appearance, a smoother surface, better printing precision, improved visibility of the fabric structure, less peeling, and removal of fluff and lint.

The process usually allows the fibers stretched over a flame of gas to ignite on either side of the fabric on one or both sides. Other techniques include infrared or heat for thermoplastic fibers. Yarn singeing is called "gassing". This is usually the first step after weaving or knitting, although the fabric can be brushed first to enhance the surface fibers.

Cellulose fibers such as cotton are easily dosed because the extensible fibers are burned in light ash which is easily removed. Thermoplastic fibers are harder to germinate because they melt and form hard residues on the fabric's surface.

Raising process

Is raising another finishing process. During emergence, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibers, resulting in hairiness, softness, and warmth, such as a flannel.

Calendaring process

Calendaring of textiles is a finishing process used to smooth, coat, and smooth any material. With textiles, the fabric passes through calendar rollers at high temperatures and pressures. Calendaring peacock-like fabrics are used to create its aqueous effect and cambric and some types of satin. To prepare for calendaring, the fabric is folded lengthwise through the front or face, and sewn along the edges. The fabric can be folded together over the entire width, but not as often as it is difficult. The fabric is then rolled through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous. High temperatures and pressures are used as well. Fabrics that go through the calendaring process are thinner and glossy, and the paper feels. The durability of blended fabrics such as polyester/cotton depends largely on the ratio of synthetic fiber components as well as the amount and type of finishing additives used and the equipment and process conditions used.

Sanforizing process

Sanforization is a process that was originally applied to cotton fabrics and textiles made from natural or chemical fibers patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett in The 1930s. The cloth is continuously fed into a sanforizing machine and moistened with water or steam. One rotating cylinder presses a rubber sleeve against the other, the heated rotating cylinder. Through this the sleeve is briefly compressed and subsequently stretched, then relaxed to its normal thickness. To treat the fabric is transferred between the rubber sleeve and the heated cylinder and this is forced to follow the brief contraction and lateral expansion and relaxation. It is compressed. The more pressure is applied to the rubber sleeves during sanitization, the less compressed the garment will be after use. The process may be repeated. The goal of the process is a fabric that does not shrink significantly during production, cutting, ironing, and sewing, or especially after washing the finished garment. Fabrics and articles made from it may be labeled as a certain shrink-proof value, for example, below 1%.

Dyeing process

Dyeing is the process of applying dyes or dyes to textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics in order to achieve the desired color. Dyeing is usually done in a special solution containing dyes and certain chemical elements. Pigment molecules are fixed with fibers by binding as factors controlling absorption, expansion, or temperature, and time. The bond between the dye molecule and the fiber can be hard or weak depending on the dye used. Various applications of dyeing and printing; in printing, the color is applied to the local area with the desired patterns. In the case of dyeing, it is applied to the whole textile. However, people have produced artificial colors to achieve a wider range of colors and to make the colors more stable for washing and general use. Different types of dyes are used for different types of fibers and at different stages of the textile manufacturing process from loose fibers to whole garments through yarns and fabrics. Cotton is colored with a variety of dyes, including VAT dyes and modern synthetic reactive and direct dyes.

Printing process

Textile printing is the process of applying fabric dye to specific patterns or designs the color of properly printed fabrics is bound with fiber, to prevent washing and abrasion. Textile printing is related to dyeing but in the case of precise dyeing, the whole fabric is evenly covered with one color, whereas one or more colors in printing are applied only to specific parts for it, and to highly defined patterns. In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens can be used to color fabrics. The colors used in printing are thickened by the capillary attraction to spread the color beyond the boundaries of any pattern or design.

Conclusion

Energy consumption in the form of water and electricity is relatively high, especially in processes such as washing, de-sizing, bleaching, rinsing, dyeing, printing, coating, and finishing. Processing time is the major part of the water in the textile industry used for the wet processing of textiles. Dyes are used in about 25 percent of the total textile production in fuels such as fiber manufacturing, spinning, twisting, weaving, weaving, garment manufacturing, etc. About 34 percent of the energy is used in spinning, 23 percent in weaving, 38 percent in chemical wet processing, and five percent in miscellaneous processes. Electricity in rotation and weaving predominates in consumer patterns, on the other hand, thermal energy is the main reason for chemical wet processing.