Introduction
In the textile field, the raw textile product doesn't use without finishing the
process. Raw goods are hard and stiff, and wear and tear properties are not good. The hand feel is also harsh and very rough.
Special finishes for natural fibers
There are many types of finishing processes in
textile goods. For natural fiber below the special finishing process is done.
Such as-
Bio-polishing
Bio
polishing also called bio finishing, is a finishing process applied to
cellulose textiles that produce permanent effects from the use of enzymes.
Bio-polishing removes stretched fibers and slabs from fabrics, significantly
reduces peeling, softens fabric hands, and provides a smooth fabric look,
especially for woven garments and as a pretreatment for printing. In denim
processing, biopolishing can reduce or eliminate abrasive stone and aggressive
chlorine treatments. Bio polishing is not only useful for cotton but also for
regenerated cellulose fabrics, especially for lyocell and microfibre articles.
The enzymes may be incorporated into detergents to remove protruding surface
fibers. This improved color retention is achieved after multiple launderings.
The disadvantages of biopolishing are the formation of fiber dust, which has to
be removed thoroughly, the reproducibility of the effect, and in the worst
case, loss of tear strength.
Mercerization
Mercerization
is a process by which cotton fabric and thread give silk-like luster and
strengthen them. The process is applied to cellulosic materials such as cotton
or hemp. The process is done by the solution of 55–65 ° Twaddle sodium
hydroxide. A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is
treated with a sodium hydroxide solution to cause swelling of the fibers. The
result is improved luster, strength, and pigmentation. Cotton is synthetic to
stress and all alkalis must be washed off before the tension is expressed or
compressed. Mercerizing can occur directly on gray cloth or after bleaching.
Raising finishing
A
raising the card is used to raise cloth. It is the technique used to produce the
nap of cloth. Originally, the only woolen cloth was raised, but now flannelette
and other cotton fabrics are also raised. Raising the finishing process for
fabrics is one last step. It teases the ends of the fabric fibers to produce a
nap. The raising was first using the dried fruit pod of a teasel plant, then
technology moved on and raising cards were created. A rising card is like a hand
card and a brush with metal bristles like the original teasel pod. The process
was mechanized during the Industrial Revolution, and the lifting machine looks
and works like a large carding machine, it has a large main roller with several
small positions around it. The small sides rotate rapidly in the same direction
or opposite of the fabric or after the lifting process, the nap is uneven. According
to gain an even surface, the nap is then sheared, or cut, to the desired
height. There are two types of raising machines; the Teasel machine and the
Card-wire machine. The speed of the card-wire raising machine varies from 12-15
yards per minute, which is 20-30% higher than that of the teasel raising. This
is why the card-wire lifting machine is widely used.
Peach finishing
Peach
finishing with a soft hand (feel) is usually obtained by machine sanding the fabric
lightly; it can be achieved with chemical or laundry abrasion. Peaching is a
process that involves sanding the fabric. The technique can be applied to just
about any type of fiber, although it does seem to work more effectively with
natural materials. After the fabric is woven, sections of the material are
dipped in chemical compounds that permeate the fabric. The sections are then
stretched taut and left to dry. The peach finish makes the fabric content on
the emery wheels, making the surface velvety. It is a special finish used in
most garments.
Fulling or waulking
Fulling
is also known as tucking or walking. It is collected from Scottish waulking,
which is a step in woolen cloth-making that involves the cleansing of cloth
(particularly wool) to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and to make
it thicker. The practice died out with the modernization of the industrial
revolution. Fulling involves two processes: scouring and milling (thickening).
Originally, fulling was carried out by the pounding of the woolen cloth with a
club, or the fuller's feet or hands. However, fulling was often carried out in
a water mill, followed by stretching the cloth on great frames known as
tenters, to which it is attached by tenterhooks.
In Roman times, perfection was conducted when cloth-working slaves worked deeply
into the urine tubes. Urine was so important to the full business that it was
taxed. Stale urine, known as washing, was a source of ammonium salts and helped
to clean and whiten the fabric. In the middle Ages, Fuller Earth was introduced
for use in the process. It is a soft clay-like material that occurs naturally
as impure hydraulic aluminum silicate. It was used in conjunction with washing.
Recently, soap has been used.
The second function of the filling was to thicken the fabric by matting the fibers
together to strengthen and enhance the waterproofing (felting). This was vital
in the case of woolens, made from carding wool, but not for worsted materials
made from combing wool. After this stage, the water was used to wash away the
foul odors used during cleaning. Because the wool on the hammer or other
mechanical movement occurs.
Decatising
Also
known as decoupling crabbing, blowing, and decoupling, it is the process of
permanently finishing a textile on a garment so that it does not shrink during
garment making. The word comes from the French Decatur, meaning the removal of the end of wool. Although originally used for wool, the term also
applies to processes performed on other fiber fabrics, such as cotton, linen,
or polyester. The simplest process for wool is crabbing and blowing, which is
the minimum variation, in which the cloth is rolled on a roller, and steam is
blown through it.
Decatised
wool fabric is interleaved with a cotton, polyester/cotton, or polyester fabric
and rolled into a perforated decaying drum under controlled tension. The fabric
is steamed for ten minutes and then cooled by drawing air through the fabric
roll. The piece is reversed and steamed again to ensure that even treatment can
be achieved.
There
are several different types of wool dating machines including batch dictating
machines, uninterrupted decatising machines, wet decatising machines, and dry
decatising machines.
Calendaring
Calendaring
is a finishing process that is used to smooth, coat, and thin any material.
With textiles, the fabric goes through calendar rollers at high temperatures and
pressures. It is used to create its water-repellent effect on fabrics such as
myrrh and on cambric and some types of satin. To prepare the calendaring, the
fabric is folded lengthwise through the inside, along the front or face, and
sewn along the edges. The fabric can be folded together over the entire width,
but not as often as it is difficult. The fabric is then rolled through rollers
that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous. High
temperatures and pressures are used as well. Fabrics that go through the
calendaring process are thin, glossy, and feel like paper. The wash durability
of calendared finishes in thermoplastic fibers like polyester is higher than in cellulose fibers like cotton. The durability of blended fabrics such as
polyester/cotton depends largely on the ratio of synthetic fiber components as
well as the amount and type of finishing additives used and the equipment and
process conditions used.
Sanforization
Sanforization
is a process that is mainly applied to cotton fabrics and textiles that are
made from natural or chemical fibers. This is a method of stretching,
shrinking, and fixing the woven fabric in both length and width before cutting
and production to reduce shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing.
The cloth is continuously fed into the sanforizing machine and moistened with
water or steam. One rotating cylinder presses a rubber sleeve against the
other, heated, rotating cylinder. Through this the sleeve is briefly compressed
and subsequently stretched, then relaxed to its normal thickness. To treat the
fabric is transferred between the rubber sleeve and the heated cylinder and
this is forced to follow brief compression and lateral expansion and
relaxation. The more pressure is applied to the rubber sleeves during
sanitization, the less compression the garment will have after use. The process
may be repeated. The goal of the process is a fabric that does not shrink
significantly during production, cutting, ironing, sewing, or especially when wearing
and washing finished fabrics. Fabrics and articles made from it may be labeled
as a specific shrink-proof value, such as below 1%.
Crease resistance
The main drawback of cotton fabric is the crease formation of woven or woven fabric
containing cellulose when washing or folding. The molecular chains of cotton
fibers are attached to each other with weak hydrogen bonds. During washing or
folding, the hydrogen bonds break easily and after drying the new hydrogen
bonds form with the chains in their new position and the crease becomes stable.
If crosslinks can be introduced into the polymer chain through cross-linking
chemicals, it strengthens the cotton fibers and prevents permanent displacement
of the polymer chain when the fibers are pressed. So it is much more difficult
to form creases or shrink while washing clothes.
Anti-microbial finish
An
anti-microbial finish, a fabric piece inhibits the growth of germs. The humid
and warm environment found in textile fibers encourages the growth of germs.
Bacteria that are infected by germs can cause cross-infection and the
development of odors where the fabric is worn next to the skin. Also, stains
and damage to the fiber quality of the textile substrate can occur. In order to
protect the wearer and the textile substrate's own skin, an anti-microbial finish is applied to the textile materials.
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