Yarn
Yarn
is the longest length of interconnected fibers suitable for use in textile,
sewing, crocheting, sewing, knitting, embroidery, or rope making. A thread is a
type of yarn made for the purpose of sewing by hand or machine. Spun yarn is
mainly made by bending the fibers together and making yarn or single. The
spinning of the fibers twisted into yarns in the process is called spinning.
Spun yarns may contain a single type of fiber or a mixture of different types.
The yarn consists of a combination of curved strands of fiber, known as pluses
when grouped together. Filament yarns contain filament fibers that are either twisted together or simply grouped together.
Thick monofilaments are usually used for industrial purposes instead of fabric
production or decoration. Silk is a natural filament and synthetic filament
yarns are used to create silk-like effects. Textured yarns are made by the
process of air texturing filament yarns, which connect multiple filament yarns
to the yarn with some characteristics of the cut yarn. The slab effect means
that the thick and thin parts are a yarn that changes regularly or irregularly.
What Is Spinning?
Spinning
is the twisting process where the fiber is drawn out, twisted, and wound onto a
bobbin. The yarn issuing from the drafting rollers passes through a thread guide,
round a traveler that is free to rotate around a ring, and then onto a tube or
bobbin, which is carried on a spindle, the axis of which passes through the
center of the ring. The spindle is driven and the traveler is dragged around a
ring by the loop of yarn passing around it.
Yarn Manufacturing Process
Yarn
manufacturing is a sequence of processes that convert raw cotton fibers into
yarn suitable for use in various end products. Some processes are required to
obtain the clean, strong, uniform yarns required in modern textile markets.
Beginning with a dense package of tangled fibers (cotton bale) containing
varying amounts of non-lint materials and unusable fiber (foreign matter, plant
trash, motes, and so on), continuous operations of opening, blending, mixing,
cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, and spinning are performed to transform the
cotton fibers into yarn. Yarn production produces a variety of knitted or
knitted end products and yarns for thread and cordage sewing. Yarn is produced
with different unit lengths and different weights. While the basic yarn
manufacturing process has remained unchanged for many years, processing speeds,
control technology, and package sizes have increased. Yarn properties and
processing efficiency are related to the properties of processed cotton fibers.
The end-use properties of the yarn are also a function of processing
conditions.
Cotton cultivation and yield
Cotton
grows anywhere with long, hot dry summers with plenty of sunshine and low
humidity. Indian cotton, Gossypium arboreum is fine but mainly suitable for
hand processing. American cotton produces the longest main product required for
the production of Gossypium hirsutum machines. Planting takes place between
September and November and the crop is harvested between March and June. The
cotton balls are harvested by a stripper harvester and collected by a spindle
picker who removes the whole ball from the plant. Cotton bowls are the seed
pods of the cotton plant which are fibrous with a few thousand seeds about 2.5
and a half centimeters long.
Ginning
Seed
cotton goes to a cotton gin. The cotton gin separates the seeds and removes
"debris" (dirt, stalks, and leaves) from the fibers. In the saw gene,
the circular saws grab the fiber and pull it through a jolt that is too narrow
for the seeds to pass through. A roller gin has long been used with the main
cotton. Here, a leather roller captures the cotton. A knife blade, set near the
roller, drawing through the teeth in the seed circular saw and rotating brush
that separates it from their cleaning. Ginned cotton fiber, also known as lint,
is then compressed into strands that are about 1.5 m long and weigh about 220
kg. Only 33% of the crop is usable lint. Commercial cotton is priced by the quality and is mainly related to the average length and variety of trees. The
longest staple cotton (26 to 18 inches) is called Egyptian, the medium staple
(1¾ in ¾ in) is called American superior, and the short staple (less than ¾ in)
is called Indian. Cottonseed is pressed in cooking oil. Bran and food are
processed into animal feed and the stems have stalks.
Bell opening and cleaning
The
cotton is driven into the mills in large 500-pound bells. When the cotton comes
out of a mound, it is all packed together and still contains vegetable matter.
The bell is opened using a machine with a large spike, called an opener. The
cotton is sent through a picker or similar machine to pick up and remove the
vegetable matter. In any picker, the cotton is beaten with a beater bar to make
it lose. It is then fed through various rollers, which help to remove the
vegetable matter. The cotton, with the help of fans, is then collected on a
screen and fed through more rollers until it emerges as a constant soft bouncy
sheet, known as a lap.
Blending and Mixing
In
the spinning process, when various fibers of different or same grades are kept
together then it is called blending. For example, yarn is produced by using 65%
cotton yarn and 35% polyester yarn then it’s called blending. The mixture is
based on the movement of important fiber properties such as length, fineness,
strength, etc. and quantitatively proportioning and combining the properties
under controlled conditions. In the blending process must be a particular ratio
of fibers to mix with each other.
And
various grades of the same fibers are kept together for manufacturing yarn then
it is called mixing. For example, yarn is produced by using 40% Indian cotton
and 60% Egyptian cotton then it is called mixing. There is no particular ratio
of fibers to mix with each other. Raw cotton is the main material that affects
the quality of yarn. The main technical challenge of any textile process is to
convert the high variability in the properties of the input fibers to uniform
ends. This critical work is largely achieved in the mixing process. The mixing
department in the spinning mill plays a crucial role in the formulation of an
appropriate mix of fibers. The blend has a significant impact on end-product
costs and quality. One mill can control the total cost of cotton by purchasing
the right quality cotton at the right time as the price of cotton fluctuates
significantly over the years and by the efficient formulation of mixings
for the various counts of yarn that is being spun.
PORCUPINE OPENER
The
cotton fed by the previous opener is advanced with the help of a feed lattice.
The cotton sheet now moves between the paddle and the paddle roller. The weight
of cotton fed per unit time is fixed by the speed of this paddle feed control.
The pedal roller feeds the sheet of cotton into a pair of feed rollers that are
heavy to give the required grip on the cotton. 16 round discs are mounted on
the shaft of this opener. 14 to 18 striker blades are alternately riveted on
each round disc. Each striker is bent at a slightly different angle. The narrow
sheet of cotton delivered from the feed roller is severely beaten by the
fast-rolling striker of the porcupine beater opposite the grid bar. Due to this
beating action, the cotton is effectively opened and the lifted waste particles
pass through the gaps in the grid bar. At the end of the grid bar, a stripping
rail is provided, this is a metal bar that is set about 1/16 inch away from the
end of the striker. This small clearance between the stripping rail and the
striker prevents a bunch of cotton from being carried near the beater.
Step cleaner
In the condenser step, the cleaner is employed to feed the cotton. The photo-cell
configuration of the reserve tower unit monitors the height of the reserve
fiber and signals stop or start commands on the processing machine. Cotton is
fed from the reserve tower with a pair of feed rollers. According to the height
of the cotton level, the feed cell of the reserve tower of the next machine,
the motorized gear reduction unit, uninterruptedly feeds the feed. The grid bars
combine effectively with the centrifugal force and the rapid revolution of
beating the cotton striking cylinder and the spike on the cotton against
gravity to open the cotton and remove the heavy impurities. From cotton heavy
impurities, dust and dirt particles, short fibers, etc. pass through the bar
interval and are collected outside the grid bar.
Scotching process
Scotching
refers to the process of cleaning cotton from seeds and other impurities. The
first scotching machine was invented in 1797 but did not become mainstream
until 1808 or 1809 when it was introduced and used in Manchester, England. By
1816, it was generally accepted. The scotching machine worked by twisting the
cotton through a pair of rollers and then hitting the iron or steel bars known
as bitters or bitters. The beetles, which turn very quickly, hit the cotton
hard, and scatter the seeds. This process is carried out by holding a series of
parallel bars that allow the seeds to pass through. At the same time, the air
is blown across the bars, which takes the cotton to a cotton chamber.
Carding process
In the carding process, the fibers are separated and then tied together in a loose
strand (sleeve or towel). The cotton comes out of the picking machine in the
lap and is then taken to the carding machine. The fibers are neatly arranged to
make the carders easier to spy. The carding machine basically carries a large
roller with smaller ones around it. All the rollers are in small teeth and the
cotton in the teeth becomes finer (i.e. closer together) as it progresses
further. The cotton leaves the carding machine in the form of a sliver: a large
rope of fibers.
Carding
in a broad sense can refer to these four processes:
Wheeling - relaxation of fibers;
Lapping - removes dust to create a flat sheet
or lap of cotton;
Carding - a sliver on a thick rope of 1/2 inch
diameter with shoulders in the litter lap; and
Drawing - where a drawing frame connects 4
slivers together, repeating for increased value.
Combing process
Combing
is a method of preparing carded fibers for spinning. Combing is divided into
linear and circular combing. For circular combing, a noble comb is an excellent
example. Example of French comb linear glass. The combing process grills out
the evening with the process of making the carded or scratched top suitable for
spinning. The combing separates the short fibers through a rewritten row of
rotating rings or steel pins. The strands at the top of it are straightened and
located parallel to each other. The short fibers that are thrown away when
combing wool are called nails and become fun to ground.
In
general, there are two main systems for preparing fibers for yarn: the degraded
system and the wool system. The degraded system is defined by the removal of
short fibers by combing and top preparation by gilling. In wool systems, short
fibers are retained and may or may not be associated with risk.
Round
comb and top comb inserts are repeated and crested fibers - now called tufts
overlap. The overlapping creates some solidity so that the tuft is allowed to
twist to create a curved sliver. This sliver is weak and unsuitable for
spinning. Fiber end irregularities need to be identified for extra gilling to
allow spinning.
Removing
the short fibers attached to the fiber and arranging the flat in a flat bundle,
all the fibers move in the same direction. This preparation is usually used to
spin the spoiled yarn. Wool yarns cannot be cut from fibers made with combs,
instead, fiber cards should be made. When the cotton is combed it is used for
quality fabric with a high thread count.
Draw Frame
The production cost of the draw frame is less than 3% of the total yarn cost.
However, it has a great effect on the quality of yarn, especially in the
evening. The draw frame is a guaranteed compensation point for removing errors.
High-performance drawing frames currently produce 400 kg of sliver per hour in
each distribution. The main goal of the drawing frame is equalization. One of
the main tasks of the draw frame is to increase parity in the short, medium,
and - especially - in the long run. In order to get the best value of strength
in parallel yarn properties, the fibers must be arranged parallel to the fiber
strand. Creating this parallel layout is basically the work of the draw frame.
It accomplishes this task through the draft as each draft step leads to
straightening the fibers. In addition to the equivalent effect of the mixture,
doubling also provides a degree of compensation for the change of raw material
through the mixture, which occurs simultaneously. Dust removal is slowly
becoming a major problem for both the processing and the staff involved. It is
important to remove dust at the most practical stage at each possible point in
the overall process.
Ring frame
The
ring frame was submitted to John Thorp of Rhode Island in 1828/9 and was
developed by Mr. Jencks of Pawtucket, Rhode Island, who named Richard Marsden
as the inventor. The cost per spindle for ring spinning is higher. In states
where cotton was the main price, the extra labor cost of driving mules could be
exploited, but Lancashire had to bear the cost of shipping. The critical reason
was the easy availability of labor, the ring became convenient when there was a
lack of skilled labor. It has always been in New England and when it turned out
in Lancashire the ring frames began to be adopted. A ring frame was made by
pressing cast iron and later steel. There are spindles on each side of the
frame, on top of which rollers are drafting (drafting), and on top, there is a
krill loading the roving bobbins. Rowing (unspun thread) goes down from the
bobbins to the drawing rollers. Here the rear roller fixed the incoming thread,
while the front rollers rotated faster, pulling the rowing and making the
fibers more parallel. The rollers are individually adjustable, mainly by lever
and weight. Short rowing now goes through a thread guide that is adjusted to
the center above the spindle. The thread guides are on top of a thread rail
that allows any broken threads to be wrapped around them for duffing or piking.
The low rowing spindle moves to the assembly, where it is threaded through a
small D-ring known as the Traveler. Move along the traveling ring. This is the
name given to the ring frame. From here the thread is connected to the existing
thread in the spindle.
Doffing
Doffing
is a separate process. A servant is descending the rails of the ring below. The
device shuts down. The thread guides are hinged. Complete bobbin coils are
removed from the spindles. The new bobbin tube holds the thread over the
spindle and holds the cup to the neck of the spindle, lowering the thread
guides and restarting the machine. Now all the process is done automatically.
The yarn is taken in a cone winder. The machines are currently manufactured by
Reiter (Switzerland), Toyota (Japan), Zinser, Suessen, (Germany), and Marzoli
(Italy). Reiter's Compact K45 system has 1632 spindles, while Toyota has a machine
with 1824 spindles. All controlled atmospheric conditions are required.
Yarn Measurement System
A. Cotton
count: refers to the thickness of cotton yarn where 840 yards of yarn weighs 1
pound (0.45 kg). 10 Count Cotton means 8,400 yards (7,700 m) of yarn weighing 1
pound (0.45 kg). It is thicker than 40 count cotton where 40x840 yards is
required. In the UK, counts are the 40s thicker (Oldham counts), 40s to 80s are
medium counts and 80s are fine counts. In the United States, the average age is
20 years.
B.
Hank: 7 leas or 840 yards in length (lowered hank is only 560 yds)
C
thread: Length of 54 inches (circumference of a warp beam)
D.
Bundle: Usually 10 pounds
E.
Lea: 80 threads or 120 yards in length
F.
Denier: This is an alternative method. It is defined as a number that is equal
to the weight of 9000 meters of a single thread. 15 deniers were fined more than 30
deniers.
G
Tex: Tex is the weight in a gram of 1 Km yarn.
Yarn Marketing System
Nowadays
yarn, marketing has become an important component for spinners having a huge
competition with local and international markets. Market Climate International
raw cotton prices continue to fluctuate with record highs again. On the other
hand, supply and demand fundamentals have become more bullish during the month of
2010-2011. In the current volatile yarn market, the right marketing strategy
needs to be adopted in the interest of the industry. These principles have
already been applied to the marketing of Dr. Engineer yarn. Md. Saiful Islam.
He said the information is not only a business that is available but he was
asked about the success of yarn marketing in his office. We can easily benefit
from the information around us.
Conclusion
Yarn
making is a very important part of the textile manufacturing industry. Make
yarn in the first step and finish the dress in the end.
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