What is brocade fabric? Brocade fabric history.

Brocade fabric

Brocade fabric is a class of rich decorative shuttle woven fabrics often made in colored silk and with or without gold and silver threads. The name, which has the same roots as the word broccoli, comes from the Italian broccato meaning embossed cloth, originally from the broccare verb means set with nails in the stud, from the brocco means small nail, comes from the Latin brocas, means projecting or pointed.

Brocade fabric


Brocade is usually woven in a drawloom. It is a complementary weft technique that produces ornamental brocading producers, non-structural, standard weave as well as holding warp threads together in order to give the loom a look that was actually embroidered. Brocade is the most popular method for arranging the fabric woven by Maya weavers in back strap looms.

Brocade fabric history

Back in the middle Ages, brocade fabric was one of the few luxury fabrics worn by the aristocracy throughout China, India, Persia, Greece, Japan, Korea, and Byzantium. Woven by Byzantine, brocades were a particularly desirable fabric. From the 4th to the 6th-century silk production was seemingly non-existent, as linen and wool were the main textiles. During this period, there was no public knowledge about silk fabric production which the Chinese kept secret. Over the years, knowledge about silk production became known among other cultures and spread westward. As silk production became known in Western culture, trade from the East began to decline.

Brocade the cloth was only available to the rich since the Byzantine emperor set extreme prices for the fabric. The woven designs of brocade fabric were often originally Persian. Wealthy rich men and aristocratic women wore silk brocades from Italy, and velvet was trimmed from Germany. During the 14th and 15th centuries, the courts of Burgundy became known for their unmistakable fashionable taste and luxurious dress. Brocade fabrics are now mostly woven into jacquard looms which are able to create many intricate tapestry-like designs using jacquard technology.

Fabric description

Brocade emphasizes decorative features and serves as an addition to the main fabric, sometimes making it stiffer although it often creates a less relaxing effect on the face. In some cases brocades, these additions represent a distinct presence on the back of the material where the complementary weft or floating threads of the brocade or broached parts hang or fall off in loose groups. Complementary weft moves from Selvage to Selvage. The yarns are cut and broached also, an isolated brocade where the complementary yarn is woven only in the patterned area.

Properties of brocade fabric

1. Brocade fabric is a rich class decorative shuttle woven fabric often create in colored silk and with or without gold and silver threads.

2. It is mainly woven on a drawloom and supplementary weft method.

3. It is not reversible like a damask weave often used for a tablecloth fabric.

4. Brocade fabric is one of the few luxury fabrics.

5. Authentic brocade is skillfully woven using breathable cotton, which means you will feel cool and comfortable even in extremely hot weather.

6. It is emphasized and served as an addition to the original fabric, sometimes making it stiffer although it often creates a less relaxing effect on the face.

Types of brocade fabric

1. Amru brocade fabric

Woven on the principle of extra weft, Amru is woven from brocade silk and zari to create varied designs. It can be very beautiful with pseudo-rich effects in general. It has continued to be in popular demand due to its lower price than pure silk brocade. Another aspect of this is that it can be woven very finely so that it gives a soft feeling, thus making it more suitable as a fabric for personal wear than true brocade.

Amru brocade fabric

2. Abrawans brocade fabric

The sarees of Abrawans, known as Banaras, are quite acclaimed in India for their fabric and gorgeousness, and style. The transparent materials of this saree are usually woven with the finest silk thread. It has earned them the name abrawan which means flowing water. The most luxurious saree, known as tarbana which means woven water or tissue saree, has a fine silk cut with a lace weft. These give the sarees a metallic shine and luster.

Abrawans brocade fabric

3. Zari brocade fabric

‘Zari Brocades’ are widely regarded as a wedding saree. In this brand, golden cords are used to create deep designs and this is the main attraction. The specialty of this brand is that the base fabric will not be clearly noticeable due to the dense fabric design. This ingredient is also referred to as ‘kimkhab’.

Zari brocade fabric

Brocade mechanism

Brocade fabrics are specially made fabrics in which weaving designs are made by inserting cords in the middle of the wrapper. During weaving, in the general case, the weft cord runs regularly on top and bottom of the repeatedly wrapped cord. It should also be mentioned here that the original zari is made from real gold. Another thing to note is that a special loom is used to make ‘brocades’. When making ‘brocades’ the cords are lifted and lowered unevenly, thus bringing a printed image to the fabric.

Brocade mechanism

Uses of brocade fabric

1. Brocade fabrics are mostly used for upholstery and draperies.

2. It is also used for evening and formal dresses, vestments, and costumes.

3. Banarasi brocade fabrics are widely used for women's fashion in the form of sarees, garments, and dupattas.

4. The use of precious and semi-ancient stones in brocades ornaments is not common but has been replaced by the use of sequins and beading as decorations.

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