What is Devore fabric? Devore printing procedure and recipe.

Devore fabric

The Devore fabric method is used exclusively in velvets, where a blended-fiber material undergoes a chemical process to dissolve cellulose fibers to create a semi-transparent pattern against more tightly woven fabrics. The same method can be used for fabrics other than velvet, such as lace or burnout T-shirt fabrics.

History of Devore

Burnout/Devore fabrics are thought to have originated in France, probably as a cheaper alternative to lace that can be made using caustic paste in fabrics. The commercial chemical process used in fashion clothing developed in Lyon in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The technique became popular in the 1920s - commonly used in evening gowns and shawls - and was revived in the 1980s and The 90s, especially by Georgina von Etzdorf in evening wear and scarves after the Jasper Conran drama dress.

Founded in 1981 as the Wiltshire Textile Printing Workshop, Georgina von Etzdorf's primary focus was on creating color effects on fabrics. With credit for popularizing the velvet scarf, he introduced Devore to the range in 1993 - experimenting with printed velvet since 1985.

Manufacturing process

Devore fabric techniques use blended fabrics that combine protein-based fibers like silk and cellulose-based fibers like viscose, cotton, or rayon. To create a ‘burnout’ pattern, a chemical gel containing sodium hydrogen sulfate is applied to the fabrics, dissolving the cellulose-based fibers and leaving the protein-based fibers unaffected by the chemical. The chemical gel can be applied by printing or by hand painting on the fabric.

Devore printing procedure and recipe

There are two types of printing recipes, such as below-

For Cellulose Devore

The removal of cellulose fibers from a mixed fiber woven/knitted fabric.

Recipe

Aluminum sulfate                 20gms

Glycerine                            2gms

Thickener                           60gms  

Water                                  18gms

Total                                    100gms

Print sequence/procedure

Print

Dry

Bake    =    140 degrees for 5 minutes or until ‘burnt’ brown color

Brush    =    out the fibers. Wear a face mask

Wash    =    out any remaining chemicals and loose fibers

For Protein Devore

The removal of protein fibers like silk, wool, etc. from the mixed fiber is woven/knitted fabric.

Recipe

Caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide)        30gms

Water                                                          19gms

Perminol KP                                              1gm

Thickener                                                   50gms    Indalca

Total                                                            100gms

Print sequence/procedure

 Print

Dry

Steam   =     100 degrees for 15 minutes

Wash     =   for a minimum of 15 minutes. Take care when washing, caustic soda burns.

Conclusion

Historically, the woven Devore fabric was deliberately created to mimic the design of jacquard woven fabrics, in some cases, it is seen that the process was actually performed on jacquard woven fabrics. The result is a tradition to distinguish a Devore fabric from a traditional woven textile, for example, a cut velvet the fabric of a Devore velvet fabric, often simply by looking closely at the weave configuration.