Introduction
Lycra breakage/void is a common problem for those of us who work in oven dyeing and washing
plants whose shipments have not been canceled after wash garments with spandex
damage, spandex, or lycra breakage/void. Those of you who are experts in garments
wash will need an idea as to why or what you should be careful about.
Why lycra breakage/void show in after-wash garments?
i. Enzymes
that hydrolyze or break cellulosic fibers or bio-polishing with enzymes that
reduce the twist of the fiber, which puts extra pressure on the lycra, due to
the beating action of the washing machine. Because of the use of that enzyme,
lycra will break.
ii.
If there is a heavy wash of lycra blends fabric or garments, it should be rubber
ball wash or stone wash without enzymes for its look. It is better not to use
the enzyme to avoid lycra breakage.
iii.
If there is a program for dyeing or washing lycra blend fabric or garments,
a pitch dyeing machine should be used for this. It has a high amount of liqueur
and does not have a beater in the machine cylinder. The paddle in the top
position of the machine rotates the liqueur, so there is less chance of body
damage due to less machine-to-body beating. Beating action front-loading,
beating on Bailey machine, much more than pitch dyeing machine.
iv.
If the fiber is broken due to the beating of the machine in case of short fiber
or card or rotor, the places of twist may become weak and lycra may break.
v.
When the hydro is extracted, it is seen in the factory that the goods are
loaded by pushing. Because the body twists due to the centrifugal force during
loading, there is a chance of lycra breakage.
vi.
If the access bar-tech stitch is in the area of the pocket belt loop, the pressure is higher or the bar-tech stitch on the side of the back pocket is more
prone to break spandex outside the stitch area.
vii. Garment allowance should not be un-even for which puckering will be done on the
garment and garment damage is more due to puckering.
viii.
During the swing, it is seen that many operators swing with tension by pulling,
which causes Lycra to take the tension inside which is break down excess hit
and machine beating.
ix. After washing the garment dry with overheating or a gas dryer, it creates a lycra breakage/void.
x. At the time of wash, liquor ratio and RPM are high, which creates lycra breakage/void.
Precautions or remedies for lycra breakage/void
i. At
the time of fabric finishing, lycra is usually damaged and elasticity is
reduced if the width is greater than the oven fabric finish requirement. Heat
setting should be done well during heat setting and oven fabric finish width
should be 52".
ii. If the edge of the cutting blade is less sharpened during cutting, then the core filament pulls during fabric cutting, and this tension breaks the lycra. So, the cutting blade edge needs more sharpening to avoid lycra breakage/void.
iii.
During the wash, the loading on the Lycra body should be reduced, and the speed
RPM should be kept low so that the centrifugal force is felt less.
iv.
The area of the zipper should be changed after pre-washing, such as during
de-sizing zipper will be staying at the top place, at the time of bleaching it
will be middle, and time of softening it will be. When bleach wash is done it
should be kept open and closed during dry it.
v.
In the case of dryer selection, we have to select the steam dryer. In the case
of the lycra blend body, the heat of the steam dryer rises slowly and the
temperature becomes even which does not have any detrimental effect on the
body.
vi. At the time of dryer, drying temperature at 45 Min 60°C for lycra fabric.
vii.
If necessary, lightly cure 50-60% hydro and dry in the steam dryer. This will
reduce the stress on the lycra blend body.
viii.
If there is a garment wash in our oven item if it is lycra fabric, then we
have to be careful while sourcing its fabric, especially if the correct denier is
needed according to the correct GSM.
ix.
Use a special Lycra protector so that the lycra does not break, anti-sleeping
agents AP are a good example of this.
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