Inspection
Inspection can be defined as a visual examination or review
of completely finished garments or partially finished components of a garment
with certain standards, specifications, or requirements and measures the garments
to check whether the required measurements are met.
Fabric inspection
Fabric inspection is a systematic observation to determine
whether the fabrics meet the customer's specifications on the
count/construction, color, design, measurement details, hand/feel, and other
specific quality parameters as determined by the client. This will reduce the
number of rejected panels or fabrics for fabric defects, thus ensuring the
quality of the finished products. Fabric inspection for clothing or other
textile products is also considered a pre-production inspection.
The main objectives of
inspection are the-
1. Detection of Defects
2. Correcting defects or defective garments as early as possible in
the manufacturing process so that time and money are not wasted later.
Fabric Inspection Method
a.
The 4-point system is highly recommended for bulk fabric
inspection.
b. At least 10% of bulk Fabric selected from each dyeing, a lot to be inspected.
c. Enlarge the inspection sampling
plan when unstable fabric quality is found.
d. Check
for mainly fabric defects such as-
i. Weaving
defect.
ii. Soil/Stain
iii. Damage/hole
iv. Fabric
construction
v. Fabric
content/weight
vi. Shading
vii. Color
shade comparison with the color standard
viii. End-to-end/end-to-middle color shading (Especially on gradual color)
ix.
Side to side/side to middle color shading
x. Roll-to-roll shading
Machine speed
a. 1 minute 05 meters = speed -1
b.
1 minute 10 meters = speed- 2
c.
1 minute 15 meters = speed- 3
d.
1 minute 20 meters = speed- 4
e.
Another speed for counting quantity check
4-point Fabrics Inspection System
The
4- point system is widely used for fabric inspection; in the United States, it
is known as AAMA point grading system (AAMA- American Apparel manufacturers
association).
The procedure of the 4-point system:
a.Fabric
inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machinery.
b.
These types of machinery are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted
behind the inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave
the table.
c.
Inspection machinery is either a power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric
over the inspection table.
d.
The defects are located, marked, and recorded on an inspection form.
e.
Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric
(meter/yard).
Fabric defects point values
based on the following:
|
Length
of a defect in the fabric |
Points
allotted |
|
Up
to 3 inch |
1 |
|
Over
3 inch up to 6 inch |
2 |
|
Over
6 inch up to 9 inch |
3 |
|
Over
9 inch |
4 |
|
Holes
and Opening |
|
|
1
or less |
2 |
|
Over
1 inch |
4 |
Calculations and Result:
i. Total
defect points per 100-yard square are calculated.
ii. If fabric rolls contain less than 40 points per 100-yard square
are considered 'first' quality and as an Acceptance criterion.
iii. If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards
square are considered 'second'.
Example:
A fabric roll 130-yard-long and 45-inch-wide contains the
following defects: -
6 defects up to 3 inches- ...................................6 X 1 =
6 points
5 defects over 3 inches but less than 6 inches- ............. 5 X 2 = 10
points
2 defects over 6 inches but less than 9 inches- ..............3 X 2 = 6
points
1 defects over 9 inch- ....................................1 X 4 =
4 points
1 hole over 1-inch dimensions- .......................1 X 4 = 4
points
………………………………………………………………………………………
Total defect
points................................................= 30 points
Note:
Any hole, any shading, or any stain
mark = 4-points
i. Calculate
the amount of fabric to be inspected and fill out the form.
ii.
Choose roll for inspection
iii.
Raise the roll-on of the machine.
iv.
Cut off a piece of about 6-inch fabric from the edge and mark to show left
& right every 10 to 15 yds/meters check to shade.
v.
Wind the roll slowly and identify defects and marks.
vi.
Check the length of the roll.
vii. Periodically
check the width of the fabric.
viii. Prepare
all reports of defects.
Reject fabric are the
following reasons-
i. Penalty
point is more than 100 square yds. and 24/100 meters.
ii. Roll
length under 25 yds.
iii. Joint
parts are less than 25 yds.
iv. If the fabric does not match the approved color shade.
Fabric inspection for garment vendors:
The single sampling plan is according to Mil-STD AQL 2.5 for use in cloth
inspection.
Number
of defective rolls
Lot
size Sample
size AQL
2.5
(In
roll) (In
roll) Accept Reject
8-50 8 0 1
51-90 13 1 2
91-150 20 1 2
151-280 32 2 3
281-500 50 3 4
501-1200 80 5 6
2101-3200 125 7 8
Fabric Preparation SOP in Garment Vendors:
i. Garments
vendors should do fabric inspection and voice out any fabric quality issue
within 7 days after the date of fabric receiving.
ii.
Garments vendors should use head-ends submitted by fabrics mills from each
shipping roll (Non-stretch: 12-inch full width and stretch: 1 yard’s full
width) to do the below check and voice out any below issue.
Point Calculation:
All
textile is evaluated on a square-yard computation. The formula used to
determine the point count level of a roll of fabric is as follows:
Total
penalty points in sample x 3600 = penalty
points per 100 yards square
Sample
yardage x sample width (in)
Acceptance point count:
Fabric group ‘A’
i. A
roll is graded as 'passed' if the total penalty points do not exceed 20 points
per 100 square yards.
ii.
The entire lot shall be accepted if the average penalty points do not exceed 15
points per 100 square yards.
Fabric group ‘B’
i.
A roll is graded as passed if the total penalty points do not exceed 20 points
per 100 square yards.
ii.
The entire lot shall be accepted if the average penalty points do not exceed 15
points per 100 square yards.
Fabric group ‘C’
A
roll per 100 square yards does not exceed 28. However, the average penalty
points for the entire lot do not exceed 24 points per 100 square yards. If over
the acceptable points, each, 4-point fabric defect needs to free replenished one
yard for cut loss compensation. Max. 32 points per 100 square yards.
Ramie's major content
fabrics
i. A
roll is graded as passed if the total penalty points do not exceed 35 points
per 100 square yards.
ii.
The entire lot shall be accepted if the average penalty points do not exceed 32
points per 100 square yards.
Remarks
For 1 penalty point’s faults (which is color yarn/ knot/ coarse yarn etc.…) a roll per 100 square yards does not exceed 18. However, the average penalty for the entire lot does not exceed 1 point per square yard.
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