Vicuna
Vicuna
is one of the two wild South American camelids which live in the high alpine
areas of the Andes and the other is the guanaco, which lives at lower
elevations. These are relatives of the llama and are now believed to be the
wild ancestor of domesticated alpacas that are raised for their coats. It makes
small amounts of extremely fine wool that is very expensive because the animal
can only be shorn every three years and has to be caught in the wild. When
knitted vicuña's wool together, its product is very soft and warm. The Inca
valued vicuñas highly for their wool.
Description of vicuna
Vicuna
is considered to be more fragile and tiny than Guanaco. A key distinct element
of morphology is the improved advanced incisor roots for Guanaco. The long,
furry coat of the vicuna is slightly brown on the back, while the hair on the
neck and chest is white and quite long. The head is slightly shorter than the
guanaco and the ears are slightly longer. Head and body lengths range from 1.45
to 1.60 m. Shoulder height 75 to 85 cm. It weighs 35 to 65 kg.
Wool
is popular because of its warmth and it is used as home decoration like socks,
sweaters, accessories, shawls, coats and suits and blankets, and throwing. Its
properties come from tiny fibers in a hollow, air-filled system. It interlocks
them and traps the insulating air. Vicuna has some of the best fibers in the
world with a diameter of 12 μm. Cashmere goat fibers range from 14 to 19 μm,
angora rabbits from 8 to 12 μm, and shahtoosh from Tibetan antelope or chiru 9
to 12 μm.
Chemical composition of vicuna fiber
Keratin
- 33%
Dirt
- 26%
Suint
- 28%
Fat
- 12%
Mineral
matter - 1%
Vicuna fiber properties
i. Vicuna is a hair fiber.
ii.
The length of this fiber is 35 mm.
iii.
The diameter of this fiber is 6-10 micrometers.
iv. Micronaire value of this fiber is 12-14.
v.
It is the most expensive fiber that is used in suitings.
vi.
The natural color of this fiber is orange-brown.
vii.
It is the softest and most delicate fiber
viii.
It is found naturally in a variety of distinct colors. The fiber can be
blended to produce an infinite quantity of natural colors. It also takes color
very well.
ix.
The fibers obtained from al Vicuna are unusually strong and resilient.
x.
Raised at high altitudes in the freezing cold, this vicuna has more heat
capacity in its fibers than almost any other animal. The fiber has a
microscopic air pocket that makes light clothing high insulation values.
xi.
It has a natural, rich luster that gives clothing made from 100% Vicuna high
visual application.
xii.
It is easily dyed in any color and always retains its natural luster.
Describe Vicuna fiber processing to the fabric making
The
use of Vicuna fiber in garment making, which has always been reserved for the
use of the ruling class, it is reserved from dates back to the pre-Inca period.
The animal was never killed but was captured, sheared, and then released,
because the Andean man never felt that he was the owner of the Vicuna, and
considered it a divine gift that would be used by the fleece alone. In order to
capture and trim the Vicunas, the ancient Andean civilizations developed an exceptional strategy that has proven to be the only effective method to this
day.
It
consists of a Chaccu and a huge, well-organized human chain that makes noise
with different instruments, waving flags of different colors, and surrounds the
beasts of the Vicunas by shouting 'Chaccu', in order to encircle the animals
completely. The Vicunas are sheared in a complex, that is full the mysticism,
color, and magic. The animal is then released without any harm.
Once
this super-valuable Vicuna fleece, the villagers proceeded to remove the
naturally grown thick guard hairs in the soft fur. It is carefully washed and
dried in mildly hot water without using any forced ventilation. All of these
are done manually, using subtle and extremely ancient techniques that have been
passed down from generation to generation for thousands of years and which,
fortunately, are still known by many in the Andean community.
The
textile processing of Vicuna fiber is similar to making works of art from
precious raw materials and those who take part in each of the different stages
must have great manual skills and intense sensitivity. The first part of the
production process, which begins after the animal is captured, sheared, and set
free, is then de-hearing, transporting, washing, and drying the fleece, which
is carried out by expert hands.
The second stage of the process, while balancing the two worlds, uses the most
sophisticated technology available to the textile industry to process this
exceptionally fine and comparatively short fiber. After spinning a fine yarn of
the best features, weaving, and continuing a fine finishing process, a piece of beautiful luxurious fabric is produced and surpasses all the looms in the world
in terms of its beauty and quality.
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