Introduction
In the textile field, the raw textile product doesn't use without finishing the
process. Raw goods are hard and stiff, and wear and tear properties are not good.
The hand feel is also harsh and very rough.
Some special finishes for natural fibers
There
are many types of finishing processes in textile goods. For natural fiber below
the special finishing process is done. Such as-
Bio-polishing
Bio
polishing is also
called bio finishing, is a finishing process applied to cellulose textiles that
produce permanent effects from the use of enzymes. Bio-polishing removes
stretched fibers and slabs from fabrics, significantly reduces peeling, softens
fabric hands, and provides a smooth fabric look, especially for woven garments
and as a pretreatment for printing. In denim processing, biopolishing can
reduce or eliminate abrasive stones and aggressive chlorine treatments. Bio
polishing is not only useful for cotton but also for regenerated cellulose
fabrics, especially for lyocell and microfiber articles. The enzymes may be
incorporated into detergents to remove protruding surface fibers. This improved
color retention is achieved after multiple launderings. The disadvantages of
biopolishing are the formation of fiber dust, which has to be removed
thoroughly, the reproducibility of the effect, and in the worst case, loss of
tear strength.
Mercerizing
Mercerizing is a process by which cotton fabric and
thread give silk-like luster and strengthen them. The process is applied to
cellulosic materials such as cotton or hemp. The process is done by the
solution of 55–65 ° Twaddle sodium hydroxide. A further possibility is
mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with a sodium hydroxide solution
to cause swelling of the fibers. The result is improved luster, strength, and
pigmentation. Cotton is synthetic to stress and all alkalis must be washed off
before the tension is expressed or compressed. Mercerizing can occur directly
on gray cloth or after bleaching.
Raising finishing
A
raising card is used to raise cloth. It is the technique used to produce
the nap of cloth. Originally, only woolen cloth was raised, but now
flannelette and other cotton fabrics are also raised. Raising the finishing
process for fabrics is one last step. It teases the ends of the fabric fibers to
produce a nap. The raising was first using the dried fruit pod of a teasel
plant, then technology moved on and raising cards were created. A rising card
is like a hand card and a brush with metal bristles is like the original teasel
pod. The process was mechanized during the Industrial Revolution, and the
lifting machine looks and works like a large carding machine, it has a large
main roller with several small positions around it. The small sides rotate
rapidly in the same direction or opposite of the fabric or after the lifting
process, the nap is uneven. According to gain an even surface, the nap is then
sheared, or cut, to the desired height. There are two types of raising
machines; the Teasel machine and the Card-wire machine. The speed of the
card-wire raising machine varies from 12-15 yards per minute, which is 20-30%
higher than that of the teasel raising. This is why the card-wire lifting
machine is widely used.
Peach finishing
Peach
finishing a soft hand
(feel) is usually obtained by machine sanding the fabric lightly; it can be
achieved with chemical or laundry abrasion. Peaching is a process that
involves sanding the fabric. The technique can be applied to just about any
type of fiber, although it does seem to work more effectively with natural
materials. After the fabric is woven, sections of the material are dipped in
chemical compounds that permeate the fabric. The sections are then stretched
taut and left to dry. The peach finish makes the fabric content on the emery
wheels, making the surface velvety. It is a special finish used in most
garments.
Fulling or waulking
Fulling is also known as tucking or walking. It
is collected from Scottish waulking, which is a step-in woolen
cloth-making that involves the cleansing of cloth (particularly wool) to eliminate
oils, dirt, and other impurities, and to make it thicker. The practice died out
with the modernization of the industrial revolution. Fulling involves two
processes: scouring and milling (thickening). Originally, fulling was carried
out by the pounding of the woolen cloth with a club, or the fuller's feet or
hands. However, fulling was often carried out in a water mill, followed
by stretching the cloth on great frames known as tenters, to which it is
attached by tenterhooks.
In Roman times, perfection was conducted when cloth-working slaves worked deeply
into the urine tubes. Urine was so important to the full business that it was
taxed. Stale urine, known as washing, was a source of ammonium salts and helped
to clean and whiten the fabric. In the middle Ages, Fuller Earth was introduced
for use in the process. It is a soft clay-like material that occurs naturally
as impure hydraulic aluminum silicate. It was used in conjunction with washing.
Recently, soap has been used.
The second function of the fulling was to thicken the fabric by matting the fibers
together to strengthen and enhance the waterproofing (felting). This was vital
in the case of woolens, made from carding wool, but not for worsted materials
made from combing wool. After this stage, the water was used to wash away the
foul odors used during cleaning. Because the wool on the hammer or other
mechanical movement occurs.
Decatising
Also
known as decoupling crabbing, blowing, and decoupling, it is the process of
permanently finishing a textile on a garment so that it does not shrink during
garment making. The word comes from the French Decatur, meaning the removal of
the end of wool. Although originally used for wool, the term also applies to
processes performed on other fiber fabrics, such as cotton, linen, or
polyester. The simplest process for wool is crabbing and blowing, which is the
minimum variation, in which the cloth is rolled on a roller, and steam is blown
through it.
Decatised
wool fabric is interleaved with a cotton, polyester/cotton, or polyester fabric
and rolled into a perforated decaying drum under controlled tension. The fabric
is steamed for ten minutes and then cooled by drawing air through the fabric
roll. The piece is reversed and steamed again to ensure that even treatment can
be achieved.
There
are several different types of wool dating machines including batch dictating
machines, uninterrupted decatising machines, wet decatising machines, and dry
decatising machines.
Calendaring
Calendaring
is a finishing process that is used to smooth, coat, and thin any material.
With textiles, the fabric goes through calendar rollers at high temperatures
and pressures. It is used to create its water-repellent effect on fabrics such
as myrrh and on cambric and some types of satin. To prepare the calendaring,
the fabric is folded lengthwise through the inside, along the front or face,
and sewn along the edges. The fabric can be folded together over the entire
width, but not as often as it is difficult. The fabric is then rolled through
rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous.
High temperatures and pressures are used as well. Fabrics that go through the
calendaring process are thin, glossy, and feel like paper. The wash durability
of calendared finishes in thermoplastic fibers like polyester is higher than in cellulose fibers like cotton. The durability of blended fabrics such as
polyester/cotton depends largely on the ratio of synthetic fiber components as
well as the amount and type of finishing additives used and the equipment and
process conditions used.
Sanforizing
Sanforizing is a process that is mainly applied to
cotton fabrics and textiles that are made from natural or chemical fibers. This
is a method of stretching, shrinking, and fixing the woven fabric in both
length and width before cutting and production to reduce shrinkage which would
otherwise occur after washing. The cloth is continuously fed into the sanforizing
machine and moistened with water or steam. One rotating cylinder presses a
rubber sleeve against the other, heated, rotating cylinder. Through this, the
sleeve is briefly compressed and subsequently stretched, then relaxed to its
normal thickness. To treat the fabric is transferred between the rubber sleeve
and the heated cylinder and this is forced to follow brief compression and
lateral expansion and relaxation. The more pressure is applied to the rubber
sleeves during sanitization, the less compression the garment will have
after use. The process may be repeated. The goal of the process is a fabric
that does not shrink significantly during production, cutting, ironing, sewing,
or especially when wearing and washing finished fabrics. Fabrics and articles
made from it may be labeled as a specific shrink-proof value, such as below 1%.
Crease resistance
The main drawback of cotton fabric is the crease formation of woven or woven fabric
containing cellulose when washing or folding. The molecular chains of cotton
fibers are attached to each other with weak hydrogen bonds. During washing or
folding, the hydrogen bonds break easily and after drying the new hydrogen
bonds form with the chains in their new position and the crease becomes stable.
If crosslinks can be introduced into the polymer chain through cross-linking
chemicals, it strengthens the cotton fibers and prevents permanent displacement
of the polymer chain when the fibers are pressed. So, it is much more difficult
to form creases or shrink while washing clothes.
Anti-microbial finish
With an anti-microbial finish, a fabric piece inhibits the growth of germs. The
humid and warm environment found in textile fibers encourages the growth of
germs. Bacteria that are infected by germs can cause cross-infection and the
development of odors where the fabric is worn next to the skin. Also, stains
and damage to the fiber quality of the textile substrate can occur. In order to
protect the wearer and the textile substrate's own skin, and anti-microbial
finish is applied to the textile materials.
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