Wild Silks
Wild silks are mostly produced by Lepidopterans which belong to the Saturniidae family. Its have been known and used in many countries in the early stages, although
the amount of production is much lower than the cultivation of silkworms. Silk
cocoons and nests are often similar to paper or cloth and their use has
appeared independently in many societies. Wild silks tend to be more difficult
to dye than silkworms from cultivated silkworms. A technique known as demineralizing
allows the removal of the mineral layer around the cocoons of wild silkworms
that hinder the sole variability of color as a way to create a commercial silk
industry based on wild silk in different parts of the world, such as Africa and
South America. The word ‘Vanya’ is a Sanskrit source, meaning unfamiliar, wild,
or forest-based. Muga, Tasar, and Eri silkworms are not completely hegemonic
and the world affectionately calls the silk they produce 'Wild Silks'. India
produces four types of silk: Mulberry, Tassar, Muga, and Eri. The silkworms are
fed on mulberry leaves grown in the orchard of the Bombyx mori tree. Silkworms
are also found wild in forest trees, like Antheraea paphia which produces Tasar
silk. Antheraea paphia feeds on a variety of plants such as
Anogeissuslatifolia, Terminaliatomentosa, T. arjuna, Lagerstroemia parviflora,
and Madhuca Indica. The wild silkworm Antheraea assamensis produces Muga silk
and another wild silkworm Philosamia Synthia ricini eri silk.
Type of Silk on commercially
There
are many types of silk commercially known and produced around the world. Some
of the common types of silks include;
i. Tussar silk
Tussar
silk is alternatively spelled as tussah and it also is known as Kosa silk. It is
produced from larvae of several species of silkworms belonging to the moth
genus Antheraea, including A. These silkworms live in the wild forests of
Terminalia species and Shorea Robusta as well as Jamun and Oak food plants
found in South Asia, eating the leaves of the trees they live on. Tussar silk
is valued for its rich texture and natural deep gold color and varieties are
produced in many countries including China, India, Japan, and Sri Lanka. The
saree is the most important Tussar silk product although it is also used as the
base material for handicrafts, furnishing fabrics, and stitched apparel. Tussar
silk is a popular additive to soap. Short silk fibers are usually dissolved in
lye water, which is added to oils to make soap. Soap made with Tassar silk has
slippery qualities and is considered more luxurious-feeling than soap making.
Tussar silk roving can be bought at soap-making supply stores.
ii. Mulberry Silk
It
is the most common and widely used silk in the world. The most well-known silk
captive mulberry silkworm Bombyx Mori's larvae are found in cocoons. It accounts
for about 90% of the world’s supply. Much of the silk produced around the world
comes from mulberry varieties. Thus, the word silk usually refers to silk
obtained from a mulberry. This type of silk is produced by the Bombyx mori
silkworm who feeds on mulberry bushes. The silkworms are entirely domesticated
and reared indoors. Mulberry silk is popular in the world, especially in
China, Japan, and Korea. The production of silk involves the killing of worms
in their cocoons to extract the silk fiber. The disadvantage of using mulberry
silk is that it needs extra care to maintain its smooth texture.
iii. Eri Silk
It
is also known as Endy or Errandi Silk. It is creamy white silk. Eri silk is
derived from two native species of silkworms known as Samia ricini and
Philosamia ricin. It is cool silk as it is cut from silk cocoon without
destroying worms, unlike shell and Taser silk. The castor silkworm, which
produces Eri silk, is reared in the castor oil plant. Silk, wool, and cotton
have a matte look. Castor silkworms and mulberry silkworms are the only
domesticated silkworms that both rely on human intervention for development. It
is durable and makes great material for clothing and soft furniture such as curtains.
However, silk is heavy to wash and can damage microorganisms as it is easy for
them to stick to the fabric. Eri silk is a major fiber, which is an integral
filament compared to other silks. The texture of the fabric is thick, delicate,
and dense. It is very strong, durable, and resilient. Eri silk is darker and
heavier than other silks and blends well with wool and cotton. Due to its
thermal properties, it is hot in winter and cool in summer. Eri silk products
are promoted as environmentally friendly and natural and provide jobs and money
for tribes practicing Eri culture.
iv. Muga Silk
It
looks like golden yellow silk. Muga silkworms also belong to the same family as
Taser silkworms. Silkworms feed on semi-domesticated animals, especially in Assam, and the fragrant leaves of Somali trees. Muga silk is known for its glossy
texture and golden brown color. The supply of silk is limited and it is used
only in the state of Assam to make traditional garments, especially for the
royal family. Its high quality makes it popular for making saris and sheets.
Extensive production of Muga silk is possible, as its production is
environmentally friendly and silkworms do not require delicate care. The thrill
of mega silk can sometimes be a problem as bleaching is limited.
v. Pat Silk
Pat
silk is a variety of domestic silk in Assam, India. It is usually bright white
or off-white. Its fabric can be dried in the shade. Nuni leaves are the larvae
of Pat Silkworm's favorite food. Silk has a natural white color and is known
for its durability and glossy texture. Other Assamese silks like pat silk are
used in products like mekhelas, sheets, and other textiles. Indigenous
silkworms are heavily dependent on humans for reproduction as a result of
millennia of selective breeding. Wild silk moths differ from their domestic
cousins; these are not commercially effective in silk production. Sericulture
in Assam is an ancient art brought by the Tibetan-Burman Kachari tribes.
End-Use of Silk
a. The
absorption of silk makes it comfortable to wear in warm weather and inactive
condition. Its low conductivity keeps warm air close to the skin during cold
weather. It is often used for clothing such as shirts, ties, blouses, formal
dresses, high fashion clothes, lining, lingerie, pajamas, robes, dress suits,
sundresses, and Eastern folk costumes.
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b.
Fabrics that are often made from silk include charmeuse, habotai, chiffon,
taffeta, crepe de chine, dupioni, noil, tussah, and shantung, among others.
c. Silk's
attractive luster and drape make it suitable for many furnishing applications.
Silk is used for upholstery, wall coverings, window treatments, rugs, bedding,
and wall hangings.
d.
Silk had many industrial and commercial uses, such as parachutes, bicycle
tires, comforter filling, and artillery gunpowder bags.
e. A special manufacturing process removes the outer sericin coating of the silk,
which makes it suitable for non-absorbable surgical sutures.
f. New
uses and manufacturing techniques have been found for silk for making
everything from disposable cups to drug delivery systems and holograms.
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