Sueding process in Textile - An overview

Sueding Machine

Sueding process in Textile

The sueding process in the textile industry is a crucial step in enhancing the quality and appearance of fabrics. Sueding refers to a mechanical finishing technique that creates a soft, smooth, and velvety texture on the surface of textiles such as cotton, polyester, or blends. This intricate process involves brushing or abrading the fabric surface with fine-grit sandpaper or wire brushes to create a raised fiber effect.


Sueding is a mechanical finishing process in which a fabric is split into one or both sides to create a fibrous surface. This fibrous surface improves the appearance of the fabric, gives the fabric a soft, fuller hand, and can mask fabric construction and subdue color. This improved aesthetics can increase the value of the fabric in the market.


History of the sueding process

In an early attempt to mechanize the surface finishing process, a machine was constructed with a large diameter cylinder to which rows of teasels were added. As the cylinder slowly rotates, the fabric surface comes into contact with a small portion of the teasel cylinder. The length of the processed fabric was stitched in a continuous circle, and in the next pass, a machine adjustment allowed for greater cylinder exposure. With each pass, the exposure of the cylinder was increased, creating a deeper pile.


The multi-cylinder sueding machine is a direct descendant of the early raising machine, while the single-cylinder sueder is a descendant of a buffing machine used in the leather industry. This buffing machine was used to create a soft nap on the surface of the skin. Soft clothing leather produced from buffing was called suede, a reference to Sweden, where it originated. The conversion from a leather buffing machine to a fabric sueder took many years and required so much innovation that the entire machine and process was patented. Next, the art of raising was improved when the cardcloth replaced the teasel. Several card cloth-covered cylinders are rotated with and against the flow of material to produce the desired surface effect. Finally, coated abrasive technology equips the current option. Both economical and efficient, coated abrasives make modern sueding machines feasible and practical.


The objective of the sueding process


The primary objective of sueding is to improve the tactile properties of fabrics, providing them with a luxurious feel and enhancing their overall appeal. By subjecting fabrics to abrasion using specialized machinery, manufacturers can achieve various aesthetic effects ranging from subtle peach skin-like textures to more pronounced suede-like finishes. These finished materials are highly sought after in industries like fashion apparel, home furnishings, and upholstery due to their enhanced softness and visual appeal.


Process description


The sueding process typically involves several essential steps. First, the fabric undergoes pretreatment processes such as de-sizing (removing sizing agents), scouring (eliminating impurities like wax or oil), and bleaching (if necessary) to ensure optimal cleanliness prior to sueding. Once prepared adequately, the material is then passed through high-speed machines equipped with abrasive elements.


These machines may utilize different mechanisms to achieve desired results. One common method is emery paper sueding where rotating cylinders covered with emery paper press against the fabric's surface while it passes through at high speeds. Another approach involves using metal wires mounted on rollers that abrade the textile fibers gently as they move along.


Sueding process

During these mechanical actions applied by either emery paper or wire brushes, friction between fibers causes some of them to be displaced while others become bent at irregular angles. As a result of this deformation caused by abrasion forces during sueding treatment, minute fiber loops emerge on the fabric's surface giving it its characteristic raised texture.


It is important for manufacturers involved in sueding processes to carefully control the amount of abrasion applied to the fabric. Too little abrasion may not achieve the desired effect, while excessive abrasion can weaken or damage the material. Therefore, finding the right balance is crucial in order to produce high-quality sueded fabrics.


Factors need to be considered during sueding


Moreover, different factors need to be considered during sueding processes such as fabric type, machine settings, abrasive intensity, and speed. These variables must be adjusted accordingly depending on specific requirements for each type of fabric and the desired final result.


Benefits of sueding process


The benefits of sueding extend beyond enhanced aesthetics and improved tactile properties. Sueded fabrics often have increased durability due to better fiber interlocking resulting from the mechanical action applied during processing. Additionally, they tend to exhibit improved color uptake compared to unsueded counterparts due to increased surface area that enhances dye absorption.


From fashion designers seeking luxurious textures for their collections to consumers looking for soft and elegant home furnishings or upholstery options, sueded fabrics continue to captivate industry professionals and end-users alike with their undeniable allure. As technology advances further in textile production methods, we can expect continuous innovations in the field of sueding techniques that will further elevate its importance within the global textile industry's landscape.


Difference between brushing and sueding


Brushing and sueding are two techniques used in the textile and leather industries to enhance the appearance, texture, and performance of fabrics. While both processes involve the manipulation of fabric surfaces, there are key differences between brushing and sueding that distinguish them from one another.


Firstly, brushing is a mechanical process that involves using brushes or similar tools to create a soft and fuzzy surface on fabrics. This technique is commonly used on woven or knitted fabrics such as wool, cotton, or synthetic blends. The brushes have fine bristles that agitate the fabric's surface fibers, causing them to stand up and create a raised pile effect. By brushing the fabric repeatedly in various directions, manufacturers can achieve different textures such as velvet-like finishes or brushed flannels.


On the other hand, sueding is a chemical process applied primarily to leather materials but can also be used on some types of woven fabrics. Unlike brushing which relies on physical agitation through brushes, sueding involves applying chemicals onto the surface of the material to alter its structure. The chemical treatment softens the surface fibers by breaking down their natural structure without compromising their integrity. Once treated with chemicals like sodium hydroxide or enzymes called proteases, which remove proteins from animal hides resulting in smoother surfaces resembling suede leather.


One significant difference between brushing and sueding lies in their effects on fabric characteristics. Brushing mainly affects visual aesthetics by giving fabrics a softer feel and enhancing their tactile appeal by creating textured surfaces. It does not typically impact other properties such as strength or durability significantly.


Contrarily, sueding modifies both the visual appearance and functional properties of materials it is applied to extensively. In terms of aesthetics, it imbues fabrics with a luxurious look akin to genuine suede leather while maintaining breathability compared to synthetic alternatives created solely for aesthetic purposes rather than practicality.


Conclusion


Overall, sueding plays a significant role in transforming ordinary fabrics into high-end textiles with added value and desirability. This intricate finishing process requires precision and expertise from textile manufacturers who understand how to manipulate various parameters involved in achieving optimal results.

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